Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer Logo
Posted on Jan 15, 2011
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Dryer not working, a pop noise, some smoke, burning smell. now if I turn it on there's a sound like small rocks inside.

1 Answer

Curtis Sewell

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  • Frigidaire Master 7,482 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 15, 2011
Curtis Sewell
Frigidaire Master
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Joined: Sep 25, 2009
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Hi Shilarhiel

You may have a couple of problems.
1...The pop noise you heard was probably the dryer element blowing out or the wire from the back of the dryer shorting out. The burning "dust bunny" smell is probably from where the sparks ignited some accumlated dust.
I will send you some info that should help you out...

When you get the drum out if you have to go that far, then be sure to oil the rollers where the shaft attaches it with a good grade of machine oil something like 3 in One oil, and that will save you a job later.
2...The noise is probably the drum belt falling apart and it could also be part of the smell.
or sometimes it may be the drum rollers making the strange noises.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have included a link to the pictures of the routing of the belt.
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/belt-config.JPG

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working, and you notice that the
drum has stopped turning, chances are the drivebelt has snapped.
Fortunately, replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation that
can be handled with a few simple tools.
First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen
If your dryer has a lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step.
Then remove the two screws that are under the cover. To unlatch the dryer top,
insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel,
about 2 1/2 in. in from one corner. Push in on the knife to release the locking
clip, lift the corner, then release the clip on the other side. Swing the top
up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel
and the door panel at one side and twist the knife to release the clip
Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel up and off the hinge springs.
To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap wood
under the front of the drum.
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel.
Move to the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the
cabinet that hold the front panel to the sides.
Slide the old belt off the drum.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installing the belt
Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood
support. Drop the new dryer belt between the front panel and the drum, and
loop it over the drum. Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front
panel back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel
screws and remove the scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that
the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on the rear bulkhead.
Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down.
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt
around the idler and drive pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up,
under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the motor, slip the
belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley.

Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make
sure the belt is tracking properly. Lower the top and press down at each
corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen cover, replace the two screws
and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is for the second part...Electrical if needed.


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the blower motor to make sure it is not faulty, also check the blower fan blade to make sure it is not broken or plugged with lint.
Check the Door Switch.
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me and if you feel so inclinded please give me a testimonial


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