JVC AV-56WP30 56 black screen blue light on no response

Check number six in diagram for continuity it is a thermal fuse and may of blown out.

Yes it is worth fixing . You can fix it yourself for about $ 21 . You need to replace the convergence I.C. chips , The part # is STK392-310 . you need two of them . You can get them from bluestar-online.com . They are about 6 bucks a piece and about 10 for shipping .

Change all the resistors?Resolder all the heat sinks?

this set(AV56wp74) was first made in 2003----if you use the remote for the set and go into the customer menu---select convergence----once there see if the red and blue will move left/right and up/down----if either color will not move in any one of these directions----you have a bad convergence IC--this set uses 2 of the STK-392-110 output ic chips---both need to be replaced and the set adjusted with the original JVC remote control. I hope this has been helpful.

If lcd set the issue may be with the T con board which is responsible for video and any aberrations that you see on screen.

The Vertical output ic is bad la7832 also has an open resistor in power supply off of pin 7 the ic.
Root cause is probably the zener diode next to the IC itself MTZJ75

Bad chips...There are a ton of cheap fakes out there....Or bad resistor...

Projection TV sets have several common problems listed below.

Problem #1) Convergence

Symptoms:

• Screen Looks 3-D
• Colors wont align
• Screen may look distorted
• No Audio/Video - makes a chirping sound.

Example Photo:

Problem #2 CRT Fluid has clouded over.

Symptoms

• Dull Video, Washed out
• White/Bright looking video
• Halos around objects
• Red/Orange looking

Example Photo:


You can see more examples and find a fix here...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

1024x768 Normal 0 Convergence


When A REAR PROJECTION TV has coloured outlines or a 3D image the Convergence Circuits most likely need attention.

Replacing the output amplifiers (located within the Convergence IC's) allows the pictures to line up correctly, and no more color outlines.

This is the most common fault in all makes of rear projection TVs.

Some models of TV require major disassembly and considerable shop/manufacturer's support to repair because of their design that causes other power supply or vertical deflection problems. The poorly designed products require a "bench" repair that can typically cost from $350 t0 $700.

Some TVs are designed for on-site repair and have more reliable circuit design that does not usually cause damage to other parts of the TV when convergence chips fail. The ones that usually allow reliable on-site repair are JVC, Samsung and Hitachi.

It is normal to have some resistors in the circuit burn up or increase in value from the heat (from 2.2 ohms to 5 or 10 ohms). These resistors must be replaced with the right value or the chip may fail again.

This is not a simple repair like changing batteries or a fuse. Reading through the other posts shows many that try and end up with bigger problems.

Your JVC uses STK 392-110 IC's. Misinformed people replace the IC's with other "new and improved" IC's, like STK 392-150. These are devices with different characteristics and require different value resistors in the circuit. Replacing with the STK 392-150 will cause overheating of the resistors and a damaged IC.

If you are in Calgary, I can help. If not, get someone that has experience working on your JVC. My website is below with some costs and explanation.

calgaryconvergencerepair.weebly.com/convergence-explanation.html

Good Luck,

Easyab

The biggest problem you stated yourself. You bought aftermarket type IC's. You should have been smarter and purchased the correct IC's for the set. All IC's are not alike, even with the same number on them. Aftermarket IC's are just that. Built in China or are factory rejects. You might get away with replacing the iC's again from a reliable dealer or you might have messed up the power supply in the meantime. Good Luck

Replace the convergence IC`s again using original Sanyo chips (STK 392-110 or STK 392-180). Make sure to use plenty of heat sink compound. Coat the entire back side of the chips. Also look to see if any of the low ohm resistors are burned. A shorted chip will cause the thumping sound and the set will shutdown. I am guessing that you used generic IC`s as a replacement. They are cheap and the leggs fall off when you apply too much heat during soldering. Dont wory about the CRT driver or the deflection board, they are probably fine.