I have a Candy DQW 150. Dryer has stopped working, clothes come out wetter than after wash has finished. I have tried cleaning filter at bottom of unit, but no improvement.. How would I clean any further filters, or is it beyond repair? Thanks
i'm guessing a bit but the part that was reset was probably a resetteble thermostat on top of the dryer air manifold. take top off machine and you will see stats mounted on top of the air duct. one or more will have a little buttonin the middle. press this button and you will hear a slight click and the dryer will then work. however, if the problem is reoccuring, then there is probably a lint blockage in the air duct causing poor air flow
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It
spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
The issue seems to be with the water not draining completely
from the unit, first check the drain pump-filter assembly located at the bottom
front of the unit. After this is done and the issue is still there then it
means that the pump assembly is bad and should be replaced. Hope this
helps...please post back for further assistance.
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If it is only doing it on the drying cycle, it must be the forced air fan that blows the heated air through the clothes.
For dryers that have sensors, the time will often go up as the sensor realizes the clothes are wetter than it first thought. Once it reaches a sound judgement, it should start to decrease. If it doesn't, you have sensor or control board issues and you need a service visit.
You can Google
make model parts schematic
and see all the parts and the costs. Control boards are very expensive.
clean the filter empty the machine at the drain filter !!!
check for rubbish in the pump viens {power OFF}
kirby grips clothes wires coins etc
perhaps you dont have the manual how to keep it clean
i'm guessing a bit but the part that was reset was probably a resetteble thermostat on top of the dryer air manifold. take top off machine and you will see stats mounted on top of the air duct. one or more will have a little buttonin the middle. press this button and you will hear a slight click and the dryer will then work. however, if the problem is reoccuring, then there is probably a lint blockage in the air duct causing poor air flow
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