Here is a GREAT FIXYA Post from 2013 that addresses your error code, "L5"
TREADCLIMBER tc5000 error code L5
Anthony
SOURCE: the machine will quit wright after you start and
Had my TC5000 for a year and this is the first time this happened. I use it everyday. Googled "Bowflex Teadclimber error codes" and found this link download.dfxi.com/supportdocs/AM/Bowflex/BFX_TC135_AM_2008.pdf which is a pdf manual.
I'm going to try this fix now, hope it works for you and me
Here's what it says for ERR LS:
Belts stop turning and “err LS”
or “err OS” is displayed
Calibration Re-calibrate machine using Owner’s Manual
calibration procedure.
Speed sensor 1. Cycle power off and on.
2. Put the machine in calibration mode (see Calibration
procedure in Owner’s Manual) but do not
start the calibration routine.
3. Remove right rear plastic cover to view LED
diagnostics on control board.
Caution: Machine is on. Current is active!!
4. Locate LED D on the motor controller board.
LED may be lit or unlit.
5. Manually advance the treadle with your foot,
and check if LED D is blinking.
6. If LED D is not blinking, then the speed sensor
is not supplying a signal. Check that the speed
sensor wire is plugged into the motor controller
board, to the connection labeled “P1”. Check
connection of speed sensor to jumper wire.
Check speed sensor adjustment (use business
card to set gap between sensor and pulley). If
LED D still does not flash replace sensor.
I/O cables If LED D is flashing when the belts are turning
but err LS or OS persists check connections and
for signs of visible damage to any of the three I/O
cables. If no damage, check continuity using a
multi-meter. If a multi-meter is not available contact
customer service for replacement cables
and further assistance.
Mike
SOURCE: Bowflex TC5000 L5 Belt will not move antmore.
Dear Sir:
Hello , I hope everything is fine with your family.
Thank you by your request, and I will help you inmediately.
You have a Mechanical problem, please do the following:
Please do this with carefully!
The motor drive belt is adjusted independently from the walking belt. Some newer models have an auto tensioner which is a lever that has a wheel that puts pressure on the drive belt and a spring on the other end that automatically loads the belt to the proper tension. You should not adjust these since they are preset.
Tension can be affected slightly by adjusting the tension of the walking belt but if you have a slipping problem, the drive belt will require replacement. If your drive belt is too loose, it will slip on the front roller pulley or the motor pulley. If it is too tight, it will increase your amp draw to the point that you may have an electronics or motor problem. Due to this, it is better to be on the safe side and replace a drive belt rather than risk over tightening it. A drive belt is usually $29.99 or less while many parts you can damage by over tightening can be more than $300.
Additionally, too much tension can cause bearing failure in the motor and the front roller and front roller pulley failure. It is better to having the belt a little too tight rather than too loose due to the possibility of injury if the belt slips.
Motor Belt Adjustment- Icon Units
DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS TO THE MOTOR. SOME MODELS WILL REQUIRE 2 9/16" WRENCHES AND MAY REQUIRE TWO PEOPLE TO ACCOMPLISH THE REPAIRS
Before beginning this repair: Check to make certain that the drive belt requires adjustment. Check out belt slipping instructions or with the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stallthe belt to make it slip.
Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley.
Step 1- Find the motor mounts. Many motors in Icon treadmills have a main pivot joint in which a bolt runs the full length of the motor mount. This bolt will require loosening to provide maximum adjustability. Some models have a single jack bolt and others have an auto tensioner. Single jack bolts are the easiest to adjust.
Step 2- Find the set bolt(s) on the motor. This is typically run through only one side of the motor mount or may be on both sides but it does not run the full length of the mounting. Loosen this bolt(s) but do not remove. Jack bolt models will have flat mounts and may contain up to four bolts.
Step 3- Look for a bolt that will tension the motor. If it has this bolt, it typically runs in the same direction parallel with the drive and walking belts. If your treadmill is not equipped with this bolt, skip to Step 4. If your treadmill is equipped with this bolt (very few are) the repair will only require one person. Using 2 7/16" wrenches, make a few turns to this bolt, tighten the bolts from Steps 1 and 2 and test your treadmill for slipping. If belt continues to slip, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 3. If a second attempt does not repair the problem, skip to Step 5.
Step 4- If your treadmill is not equipped with a bolt as described in Step 3, the drive belt must be tensioned by hand. While one person applied increased tension to the drive belt, the other person should tighten the motor set bolt(s) that are described in Step 2. Tighten the bolt from Step 1 and test. If the problem is not corrected, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 4 and retest. If problem persists, skip to Step 5.
Step 5- If you have arrived at this step, let's make sure you have a drive belt tension problem. With the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley. If this is the problem, you will notice it because the plastic will usually make a loud squealing sound on the metal front roller. The entire front roller assembly repaired or replaced (see the help topic on replacing a pulley) and the drive belt must be replaced. We suggest replacing the drive belt as well because it is a low cost item and will most likely, have suffered unusual wear from the problem. Another possibility is that the drive belt has worn down. In some cases, belt dressing may help correct the problem. If not, the drive belt must be replaced.
Step 6- The belt should be able to be turned by hand at approximately a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position.
Thank you in advance, sincerely. God bless you.
If you need further help, please reach me.
E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A.
The
Steps for Newer Style Console Calibration:
Locate the calibration area on the
rear or underside of the console (a hole, near the console's center,
that goes through to the electronics board. (This hole should not
have a screw in it.)
Insert a pencil (eraser end),
into the hole and feel around for the cal button (will click
when pressed).
Press the button 2 times
(with the pencil eraser). The first click should show CL11
in the console, the second click should show CL21.
If the process was done correctly,
and CL21 appears in the console, you are in "calibration
mode." The next few steps consists of pressing buttons
on the console and observing settings. This will not require
any other tools.
Press ENTER. CL22 should display
in the TIME window and (??) in the SPEED window.
Press ENTER. CL23 should display
in the TIME window and (??) in the SPEED window.
Press ENTER. CL24 should display
in the TIME window and (??) in the SPEED window.
Press ENTER. CL25 should
display in the TIME window and (??) in the SPEED window.
Press ENTER. CL26 should
display in the TIME window. You should then see the
letter "E."
Press ENTER. You should see "SS"
or "55" in the console.
Push the STOP/START button. For
safety, at this point, you should step off, or be off, the
treadmill.
Push the ENTER button. The walking
belt should start to move, accelerate to maximum speed, then stop on
its own.
When the belt stops, the
incline should self test by raising to its highest
incline position, then lowering back down to its lowest
position.
Once the incline test is complete,
push the POWER button 2 times. The unit should shut off and the
console should go completely blank. If this happens, the
treadmill is done calibrating and is ready for use.
There are four typical causes for this problem :
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the
time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too
tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller board is
dropping output. (2% of the time) . You can do it foryourlsef. However i will give some websites FOR TO CONTACT THEM:
www.unitedassemblers.com + www.treadmildoctor.com
Sincerely. Merry Christmas.
ERNESTO CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA.
3,209 views
Usually answered in minutes!
I changed the fuse without buying a controller board and my tc5000 came back on and reset it self.
×