How do you know if the trigger is bad? getting dc volts to trigger but nothing out when I press it.

The switch has gone bad. Very common on these. The contacts in the switch wear out and then get welded together. The motor draws a lot of power when first started and this is ******* the switch.

The typical lousy power source for this system is likely defective. They will normally rise to 140-150% of nominal voltage (24V) and settle around the required voltage when loaded.
Check the supply (if separate) for a rating of voltage and current; for example: "24VDC/XXMa" where the 'XX' is the current that will either be in milliamperes or amperes.
To correctly measure the voltage, you must know first if it's output is AC or DC.

If this is a DC supply, it probably has a failed diode, if AC, the transformer is bad.

A less likely, but possible problem, is that the programmer itself has an internal failure and is overloading the supply.

If you have a meter with a separate 10A jack, and you can interrupt either side of the supply line, try measuring the load current.
This will however, only be possible if the 10A can measure both AC and DC or if you know that the supply output is DC.

Buy a "multimeter" (about $10) and switch it to DC volts.
Fully charge the battery.
Hook leads to the battery (red to positive, black to negative).
Start engine, and check meter.
You should be pulling about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug output wires on the voltage regulator and hook the leads to it.
Start engine, and again, at idle you should be getting about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug alternator (stator and rotor) and hook meter leads to wires, AND SWITCH TO AC VOLTS on the meter.
Start bike, and at idle you should be pulling 15-20 volts or more, with it rising (sometimes drastically) when you rev the engine.
This will tell you if the alternator's bad, or the regulator.
Also, you said you changed the stator, but sometimes the rotor becomes de-magnitized, especially if you've dropped it.

The motor is most likely in the wiper fluid reservoir. Remove reservoir and disconnect motor, supply 12 volts to the motor if it's ok it should spin, spraying fluid every where. DC motors immersed in fluid don't alway last. Replace motor if it does nothing.

You can test the battery by using a voltmeter.

Set the voltmeter to DC and to read up to 20 volts.

If its getting a reading, then the trigger switch most likely shorted out. If not, then the battery is defective.

get some wire that's equal in size or larger gauge than the battery cable (a jump start cable works great) and connect from one side of the solenoid to the other momentarily. The starter should engage. If it doesn't, you have either a dead battery, bad battery cable, or the starter relay is bad. You can also try a jumper from from the battery positive terminal to the starter side of the solenoid. If it engages then the the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid is bad. To test the relay, put 12 volts dc on the trigger side and the relay contacts should close. You'll hear them close with a click.

It is important to understand how strobes work. A capacitor is charged to around 300 volts through a high value resistor. When the bulb is triggered, the capacitor charge drives the lamp with a high burst of current as the lamp breaks down with plasma. The lamp is USUALLY triggered by a very fine wire around it or one end that recieves a several thousand volt pulse from a trigger transformer that creates a field near the electrodes within the flash lamp. This field starts the gas in the tube breaking down which causes the plasma to form.
Typically you should see the voltage across the lamp build up to around 300 volts DC. You would need special instruments to see and measure the high voltage pulse that triggers the flash.
The usal cause of failure is degradation of the flash tube due to sputtering of the electrodes at one end. If you see a blackening near one end of the flash tube, time to replace the flash tube. DO NOT handle the glass of the flash tubes as skin oils can degrade them. If the bulb shows no blackening, possibly the triggering is not working. NO current flows through the flash tube until triggered, however there would be a small current charging the capacitor that is in parallel with the tube to build it to around 300 Volts DC.

If you get nothing but a blue light and no video at all it sounds like you have a bad power supply. They are easy enough to check and replace but not for a first timer. If you know someone who knows more; get a volt meter and put it on the DC scale. Unplug a power plug to a drive or find one that is not used. Measure the Yellow to black and then the red to black wires. You should get 12 & 5 volts respectively.

My DC16 also had charging problems. I called Dyson and they sent a new charger. The old charger only produced 23.6 volts DC, not the rated 28 volts DC. The new charger has a thicker round wire and produces 28.1 volts DC. Put a volt meter on your charger terminals and see if it is producing enough voltage to fully charge the battery, 28 volt DC. If not you need a new charger.

far as i know the dyson dc 16 root 6 vacuum uses a lithium ion battery with a charge of 21.6 volts. it could be that either your battery isnt storing the right amount of power anymore and you may need to replace it. check on the specifications to confirm how much volts the battery is supposed to have. too little volts may be enough for things like lights to switch on, but not enough for the motor to start up.