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My whirlpool dryer won't heat. I checked the element with an ohm meter and it has continuity. Replaced operating and hi limit thermostats and still no heat. Model no. LER 4634PQ1
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if u can run it on delicate or fluff cycle with cool air more than likely its ur cycling thermostat or the hi limit thermostat going defective test it with a meter for ohms..
1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.
2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.
Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while
DRYER OVERHEATING:
Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot or not heat at all. . If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE? SHOULD SHOW OHMS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.
Check your wiring connections, then check your upper limit thermostat for continuity with an ohm meter this unit should show short when cold, open when to hot. It will be located near the heating coil assembly.
No heat at all is usually the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, the heating element or you have a bad breaker at the box and are running on 1/2 phase (or 110 only).
With the power OFF and the dryer unplugged. Use and ohms meter (borrow one or pick up a cheap one for around $10-$15) & check the high limit thermostat (right hand side at the base of the housing for the heating element), take the wires off both terminals and check for continuity between the terminal (set the meter of ohms place the black lead on one terminal of the thermostat & the red lead on the other terminal, doesn't matter which, the needle should move, if it doesn't, replace the thermostat).
You can check all the thermostats, fuses, door switch & the heating element this way.
Yes there is a thermal fuse and a hi limit switch. The hi limit switch is attached to the heating element casing. You said the heating element checks out If you checked it with an ohm meter and it checked out good. If you checked it visually double check it. The hi limit can be checked with an ohm meter it should show continuity. If you dont have a ohm meter you can jump the wires by connecting them using a paper clip or copper wire. Make sure to tape them with electric tape. The thermal fuse is connected with the Heating element and hi limit by one wire and is located at the bottom back of the dryer and slightly to the right as you face the back of the dryer. It is a small two wire fuse and once it trips you have to replace it you can check it and test it just like the hi limit switch. Be careful and always unplug the dryer before starting any repairs. I hope this help. If you need me to clarify anything just let me know. good luck
The heating circuit of the electric dryer consist of the
following parts. The timer, the heating element, the hi-limit
thermostat, the safety thermostat, the operating thermostat, the
temperature switch and the motor centrifugal switch. If any of
these parts fail, the dryer will not heat. Now, most people when the
dryer stops heating, replace the heating element or the timer with out
checking to make sure that those parts are bad. Rule number one is,
don't assume that the part is bad with out checking it with a
multimeter. The first and most important thing you need to do, is
to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet before doing any kind of
work on it. Most parts will need to be checked for continuity and the
dryer must be disconnected from the wall outlet. Most of the times the part causing the problem is behind the dryer and you can gain access by removing the back panel. Remove
the back panel on the dryer. Disconnect one of the heating element
wires and take a reading between the two terminals on the heating
element. The reading should be between 10 and 50 ohms. If the heating
element is good, check the hi-limit thermostat by removing one of the
wires and checking for continuity. Continuity means, that electricity
could pass through the part that you are checking. The hi-limit
usually blows when there is an obstruction on the exhaust hose, so make
sure that the exhaust hose is not obstructed when replacing the
hi-limit kit. If the hi-limit thermostat and the heating element
are ok, check the operating thermostat. The operating thermostat is in
charge of maintaining the temperature inside of the drum at about 150
degrees. You will need to check from the two terminals with the red
wires attached on it. Those where the parts that fail more often
in the Whirlpool electric dryer. The timer, the motor centrifugal
switch, the temperature switch are a little harder to check because
there are may different one. You will need to use your wiring schematic
to see how to check them.
Check for burnt out heating element and electrical connections to element and thermostats. If okay check all thermostats, operating and high limit, with an ohm meter. All must be in closed position. If element,thermostats,and electrical connections good then check timer.
Did you check the thermal fuse? The dryer must have 240V for the heating element to work. Just because the dryer will run doesn't mean that the fuse is not bad. It is located on or near the exhaust duct just inside the back of the dryer. It is about one inch long. Check it with an ohm meter for continuity. If there is no continuity, then replace the thermal fuse. When you say that you replaced the thermostat, are you referring to the high limit thermostat? Hope this helps and best wishes.
Hi, THe heating element is located in the back of your dryer. UNPLUG the dryer. Remove the back panel and you will see the element on the right hand side. If you have an ohms meter, check continuity on all the thermostats and the element. If any of them have no continuity, it will need replaced. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Before you purchase any more parts, you should have use of a multi meter. If the dryer is not heating at all, and of the following parts could be bad.......Operating (cycling) thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal fuse, timer, or motor centrifugal switch. All but the motor switch can be easily checked with the dryer UNPLUGGED using the ohms feature of the meter.
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