Hi there just got a Kinesis TK2 bike only been on it four times. Was out yesterday for a medium 40miles run but found that the mid gears the chain jumps frequently is there anyway of adjusting it to run smoothly? Tiagra gears.

The rear derailleur needs adjusting, once to establish limits (so it can't go past high gear or low gear). Everything else is up to you fine-adjusting the shifter to make the bike run quietly. If you're careless about your gear changes, you'll get MOSTLY into one gear but not quite perfectly, so the bike is always trying to start shifting into another gear - that's the sound you hear, the sensation you feel. Fine-tune your shifter positions each time you shift - you'll find a "sweet spot" where the bike runs almost perfectly silently.

No, they can't readily do that at the factory, not with chain drives. There are just too many things that can affect gear changes, and things are in a slightly different position every time you remove & replace the rear wheel, or even loosen & retighten it. Unless you're ready to spend vast dollars on a foolproof shifter system, shifting cleanly is going to be your job and your job alone. It's one measure of your bike riding skill... and the better you get at that skill, the better you feel about it.

...and your bike will like you for it.

driveshaft or chain

considering the size of the engine , you can consider your self luck to get 40 mph
you can get a bigger main jet which may get you faster but considering that the engine is the same capacity as a good chain saw , you are asking a lot
if you want to go faster --get a bigger bike

its correct but we can maintan it regular sevice and 15to25 oil level checkups chain cover r not given beacuse its new model bike na u also check chain sproket oil evey 10to15days som free ness become strating starting come medium speed slowly take speed than be strain less you riding also happy

hi, sounds like clutch drag, has the bike stood for any length of time, chain tension also plays an important part of easy gear selection, as well as the correct amount of free play at the lever

No! Generally, the timing chain or camchain that controls the valves is tensioned automatically. To change the position of the timing is not possible without a tear down of the top end of the motor, but moving chain just one tooth would result in severe damage to your valves. piston, rockers and cams etc. Minute valve timing is achieved by camshaft node shape. Camchain tensioners are so designed as to take up the slack on the trailing side of the chain. when chain begins to stretch and wear past this tensioners limit, your chain MUST be replaced before inevitable engine death or worse!! Electrical timing on post breaker points bikes (mid 1970's) is controlled by the placement of stator backing plate in relation to the pulse pick up coil. Some engines do not have any room for change here, others have about 6 degrees rotation. This can only be done with a stationary motor and is a matter of trial and error. Generall a mark is etched at TDC as is the magneto rotor. Your bikes make, model and fear would be needed for further assistance. Cheers.

Basically, avoid cross-chaining. That is, the right-most drive chainring with the left-most cogs, or vice-versa. They place excessive sideways torque on the chain (increasing friction and wear) while not prividing any unique gear ratios that a straighter chainline would provide. The rear derailleur may not be able to take up the slack of small-small riding; or your chain length may be sufficiently short that large-large combo will pull the derailleur to far forward, perhaps even damaging it. To illustrate for yourself what crosschaining does, manually shift your bike into the two described extremes then get behind the bike and sight along the top run of the chain. You'll clearly see that it forces two unnecessary sideways bends in the chain. That is really bad for the hardware.

Generally, the large chainring is for high wheel rpm's but low rider torque, so stay toward the same side (medium-smaller cogs) of the cassette in the rear to maintain higher speeds.

Conversely, the granny gear (smallest chainring) is for high torque, low speed conditions and it works best with its same side (medium-larger) cogs on the rear. The middl ring works with all of the cogs in the rear and serves most off-road purposes that don't require extremes of speed or power.

Buy a few bicycle magaizines, visit bicycling.com and read up on shifting and everything else. It's worth it to get it right and ride smarter instead of harder.

Check if timing chain is not loose. If u found the timing chain is loose check your timing if might jumped one tooth of the gear.

It sounds like the primary drive chain is loose. The way I adjust mine is to take off the upper left inspection cover, start the bike and slowly tighten the adjuster until it starts to wine, then back off until it stops. Rev it slowly and listen for a wine. No wine good to go.

Take the back wheel off and straighten the chain. Be careful to keep it straight while putting it back on. Try and oil the chain first.