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Repairing the input jack on your Bugera 6262 amp head is a task that requires careful attention and technical expertise. If you're comfortable with electronics and have experience working with amplifiers, you can follow these general steps to access and repair the input jack. However, please note that working on high-voltage electronics can be dangerous, and if you're not confident in your abilities, it's best to seek professional assistance.
Safety Precautions:
Disconnect the Power: Ensure that the amplifier is completely unplugged from the power source before you begin any work. This is crucial to prevent electric shock.
Gather Tools:
You'll need a set of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head) appropriate for the screws used in the amplifier's casing.
A soldering iron and soldering supplies (solder, desoldering braid, etc.) for working on the input jack connections.
Opening the Amp:
Remove the screws holding the amplifier's chassis in the enclosure. These screws are usually located on the rear panel or sometimes underneath the amp. Keep track of the screws and their locations.
Accessing the Input Jack:
Once the chassis is removed from the enclosure, you should have access to the internal components of the amplifier. Look for the input jack and its connections on the PCB (printed circuit board).
Repairing the Input Jack:
Carefully examine the input jack's connections. If you see any loose or broken solder joints, you'll need to re-solder them. Use a soldering iron to heat the solder joint and apply a small amount of new solder if necessary.
Testing and Reassembly:
After repairing the input jack connections, it's a good idea to test the amp's functionality before fully reassembling it. Plug in your instrument and ensure that the input jack is working as expected.
Reassembling the Amp:
Once you've confirmed that the input jack is functioning properly, carefully reassemble the amplifier. Make sure to secure all screws and components properly.
check out your tubes....it sounds like one is working its way out of its socket or you have a microphonic tube...may be time to replace them and have the amp serviced while you are at it. ...Does one tube have a whitish look? inspect them/.....are there any cracks? while it is on...tap them with a lead pencil...something NOT metal...does it make a loud noise? These are all indicators there is something going on with your tubes..Good luck
Does your M foot switch work on the Fender? If you know how to use a multimeter you could check continuity by putting meter leads on plug of M foot switch(1 on tip, 1 on sleeve ) You should see a change in the multi meter when you depress switch. If so switch is good. Another easy test is with cap off a spare 1/4 plug -plug it in to foot switch jack.put a alligator or some such metal clip or wire and join(called short or shorting) the two inputs . If connecting and unconnecting results in switching then the foot switch is suspect. One fairly common thing is that foot switch and input jack are often sautered straight to a circuit board to save $ on production cost. Used to be all point to point where a wire was attached to 1/4" input and then wire went to circuit board or tubes. The wire has give, but not so with direct wiring to board. So the nut holding the 1/4" amp input gets loose(doesn't have to be loose for the following to happen) and a pull on the chord causes a break in the soldier and thus a break in the sound chain. Sometimes it will work intermittingly by putting a little pressure left, right, up or down on the plugged in plug. If so, it's the input jacks connection to the amp. If not it still could be that because putting pressure on plug may not be sufficient to affect a temporary reconnection. Since switch(the new one you made)works on Fender, but not Marshall I suspect the jack or foot switch circuitry past the input jack. If using some of the above the above tests leads you that direction,remove housing(unplug a/c power 1st ) inspect jack,wiggle it slightly see or feel a break then resodier from back side. You should be able to use the soldier already present without adding extra.
Some keyboards use the amp output sockets for headphone use. You might need some adapters for your headphones. If it fell in, you would see an empty hole. This would be unlikely because it is held on by two screws. If all fails, buy an amp with a headphone jack input. Plug the keyboard into the amp and use the amps jack.
Yes, the jack MAY actually be broken. It will need to be serviced. Run cables through the handle to avoid plugs from being yanked sideways and breaking the jacks.
Yep! These poor quality jacks become "unriveted" and break in half. This is a fairly common occurence. Don't be afraid to unscrew stuff. USUALLY the corner protector screws are NOT necessary to take out. OFTEN the screws for the handle need to come out and any other screws from the top and the sides in the vicinity of the amp portion need to come out. Just keep track of where they go. The jack MAY be a part of the circuit board and you will need to get an exact replacement. NOTE: If it is mounted on the circuit board do NOT overtighten the panel nut as that can "de-rivet" the brand new jack !!! They are really poorly made...
This sounds like either a bad guitar cable or a bad jack in the guitar. Possibly your friend is not as qualified to find these intermittent problems as needed? These jacks are really junky and often have riveting of the barrel come undone... especially if the retaining nut is overtightened. The LONG barrel like jacks are notorious for failing. You have all the information you need to solve this problem. First try a different guitar cable... (often they are broken or intermittent at the end where they flex). If that doesn't fix it, replace the jack in the guitar. Also verify that the conductive coating paint within the guitar is grounded. Sometimes the contact to it is destroyed when the volume control shafts or jacks become loose and they depend upon the shaft barrel to ground the paint.
Those can be a pain to find. Some are Metric which worsens the problem. There are several types as well. I would first try Radio Shack where they have the drawers of jacks, etc. Those ore probably English thread...
The BEST source would be to search the DIGIKEY.com website for a jack that has the identical nut... the jacks are NOT expensive... under $2. Finding just the nut alone unless a repair shop for amps happens to have one laying around will be near impossible. It is worth trying that source however because USUALLY the jack inside is broken.
You likely have a bad input jack. A VERY common thing with these. They don't like to work on the jack because one has to remove too much to replace it. Lazy shop! Sometimes the solder has just broken loose or the board pads damaged. Replace the jack anyway as they take a beating.
Find a shop willing to work on it properly and DON'T accept it back until it is fixed!
Another problem with amps can be the preamp output jack switch which fails to close leaving the amp dead... but it usually won't hum much when that happens.
HINT: Loop your instrument cord through the handle so when you trip and yank on the cord it won't break the input jack... saves a lot of jack repairs!
I think I know what happened and since I am not in front of the unit I will go over couple of things and a general cure. You have a case of signal ground uncoupled from chassis ground and your body is a pickup of electrostatic charge, this charge is present every where and can be up to several thousand volts but at almost nil amps. Since we are in a power grid this charge has a 60 cycle component and this overlays the the charge. That is the tutorial for the theory. The change of the jack has made a disconnection of the signal ground and chassis ground and this needs to restored to get rid of the hum. It might be something as simple as paint or a fiber washer preventing the connection. Also the wiring may have to be reversed on the hot side. If that fails you may need to add a coupling device and since a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a diagram and I hope it works here.... email me at [email protected]
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