Can I readily remove the stage from a Micromaster I, in order to examine a larger object (eg.violin) ? And then reinstall it without damage? Thanks Sam

It's not possible to say what needs replacing (if anything) without knowing why the tape won't eject. It's quite likely that there's a problem with the ejection mechanism, (eg.broken linkage). If you feel confident enough to have a look yourself you need to disconnect the power supply and then remove the casing. NOTE WHAT YOU DO because you'll have to reverse this when you reassemble the VCR. With casing off you should be able to see the tape-handling section. Examine it carefully and work out how it functions. NOTE You won't be able to get the tape to eject without power but you should perhaps have an idea of what's wrong.

No, this is one of the easiest jobs I have ever done!

• Simply remove the cable from the carbon rod, and
• Insert a Torx T-20 in the lower end of the brass pivot, and
• They unscrew easily and you can then remove the carbon rod entirely.

There are no springs to fly out - they're attached to the lower alloy part - and no spring tension to cause problems. Then:

• Remove the cable stop attachment and move to the new part, and
• Rmove the the two limit screws (if they didn't come with the part), and then reinstall on the new part, and
• Finally reinstall the new part on the derailleur base.
• Then re-connect the gear cable to the new part, and
• Reset the limit screws following Campagnolo's instructions very closely, see http://www.campagnolo.com/AU/en/Support/download_2?td=4 for the manual you need.

This was a very easy job indeed - and like you, I was very apprehensive knowing how tricky some Campagnolo repairs can be. Clearly this was envisaged at the design stage and well-implemented. Now if only the part was more readily available...

No it doesn't. Violin only has strings without any frets or markings. It is a string instrument without frets. It only has 4 strings and sometimes 5. Practicing often can get you to remember the positioning of notes using a bow.

some watches are water resistant, and in order to achieve resistance, is made very exact.....
you need to use probably hydraulic press in order to close it back again.... once I had same problem and strenght of my fingers was not enough to close it back.... it just wouldn't pop in.... so only one old guy that used to repair clock had that special small hydraulic press to close lid back....

I hope you understand, I didn't use English to communicate for quite a long time.....

This thread may help.....
https://www.automation.siemens.com/WW/forum/guests/PostShow.aspx?PageIndex=1&PostID=441795&Language=en

This violin is made of 2 types of woods,spruce and maple.

What do you mean by drive belt. If your talking about the serpentine belt, it should have an auto tensioner. Same goes for the timing belt. There is no adjustment. If the belt is loose then it needs to be replaced.
Replacing timing belt,Sienna 1998:
1.Disconnect battery (-) cable and plastic wiper washer cowl assembly
2.Remove spark plugs and put all wirings,cables out of the way
3.Drain coolant (cold) and remove upper hose
4.remove front right tire and wheel plastic fender apron
5.jack up engine under oil pan with rubber,towel or wood slightly
6.remove right engine support rod and its bracket
7.remove all drive belts.Examine condition;Label if re-using
8.remove plastic upper timing belt cover & gasket
9.remove crankshaft pulley bolt-use the ff. methods: a.air impact wrench or Toyota Special service tool-best b.chain wrench on pulley then breaker bar/socket on bolt-good c.open fly wheel cover,jam screwdriver on gear teeth then unbolt-tough d.breaker bar/socket on bolt, jam bar tip on floor, lower car then "start" engine -smart
10.remove pulley by hand or use carefully 2 prybars then remove plastic lower T.B.coverand gasket
11.reinstall bolt and turn engine clockwise to align timing marks:one on each camshaft sprocket and one on the crankshaft sprocket
12.remove T.B. tensioner spring-2 bolts loosen alternately then keep upright
13.remove crankshaft sprocket guard then the sprocket, then the belt.
14.Examine belt condition for damage and correct cause of damage if any
15.remove idler T.B.pulleys & check for smooth operation/contamination/leak
16.check all oil seals, water pump leaks,etc
17.Check T.B.tensioner spring for oil leak and tension by pressing push rod against hard object-there should be no movement or leak
18.Compress push rod using vise, align rod hole with outer hole then insert small nail, pin or wire to keep it there then reinstall along with other parts removed
19.Install T.B.carefully.No twist, stretch,prying ,oil, moisture, bending
20.Handturn engine 720 deg.clockwise, feel for resistance , and then see timing marks still re-align
21.Reinstall plastic covers and gaskets,drive belts.etc in reverse order 21.


Hope this helps.

The gear that runs along the stage is probably loose. It is held in place by three screws. If the gear is nots parrallel with the X/Y axis gear it will bind. My guess would be that it is the two outer ones that are loose, thereby creating a see-saw affect.

Sounds like you have the wrong bulb installed. This scope requires a 6v-20w halogen bulb. They are available from: Delta Optical Instruments, Inc. email: [email protected]

I think your problem lies in the way the stage is limited upwards. On top of the stage, right behind it where it slides against the arm, there should be a little screw.  This screw limits the movement of the stage to a certain point upwards.  If the limit exceeds the adjustment gear and its opposing track, then the stage just goes up one notch and then it clunks down.  If you screw it down the stage is limited further down, if you screw it up it's limited a bit higher.  The point of this screw is to prevent objective and slide damage.  Try adjusting this little screw a bit further down and see if it still 'clunks' when you turn it up.  After that we may work on properly adjusting it.  If not, please post again with whatever detail you can provide to aid you with this problem further.