Kenmore TopLoad Washer number 4767290

Handy hippy's guide to HE bliss

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The lid switch controls the rinse and spin cycles.
If the lid switch is bad the cycle fails to advance.
Replace your lid switch.

sounds like a bad moter,

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Check the areas for the motor and pump and the Agitator Basket and Tub.

If you've checked the hoses to and from the pump the problem points to either the pump itself or to the Centerpost gasket.

Neither of these is too difficult to replace, the Gasket requires removing most parts of the washer although the pump is an easy replacement.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

There are a number of Series 80 design washers. You'll need the actual model number to better check for the problem.

First, I'd remove the top agitator (as you've already done), then I'd remove the main agitator.

Under it you will see a clip and what Whirlpool calls a "washer". The "washer has two prongs, one fits into the main agitator shaft drive and the other fits in the lower agitator. If one or the other of the prongs is broken, the agitator most likely wont. I'd also look inside the main agitator to see if the ridges are broken off.

I'd then start the washer on it's smallest cycle and see if the main agitator shaft turns back and forth. If it doesn't and the washer goes through it's drain and spin cycles, the problem is likely in the transmission itself with what they call the agitate gear and / or agitate cams.

Please see the Whirlpool / Kenmore PDF document on installation, maintenance and operation of direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6?OpenView&Start=1

This is a Whirlpool document with parts lists for their commercial washers (basically the same as the consumer models)

If the problem is in the transmission, although it looks complicated, it really isn't that bad if you have a moderate level of mechanical ability.

Almost went and bought a switch until I widened by search for "kenmore washer 80 series overflow" and came up with this:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t1206464-kenmore_80_series_overflow

Turns out that a couple weeks ago, I had a really unbalanced load that probably shook off the tubing. Anyhow, saved me a trip to the supply store AND cost. Thanks to the original poster!

it seems to me ur washer transmission is going out or already there

your basket drive has gone out on you.
cost high to repair

To check the lid switch set it on spin. Should spin with lid closed & not spin with lid open. What is your problem ? (not filling ) ( not agitating ) ( not draining) ( not spinning ) it won't have an exit filter.
If the lid switch is ok it should agitate drain & spin .. The lid switch could stop agitate on some & not on others. If it is not draining it could be the pump. Sometimes a sock or something small can go down the drain and get in the pump & stop it up then it won't drain
like it should. Always say what the problem is like agitate or spin.
Hope this helps

Verify Lid switch ..... A solved rating is great motivation to continue giving priceless advise........