I'm having a hard time getting the timing belt or drivebelt on my 2001 ford mustang gt 4.6L 8cylinder. it has 7 pulleys showing in the haynes manual but there is 8 an additional idler pulley....I can't get this thing on and it's frustrating me...any tips would be helpful...thank u

In general the best and safest method is to use the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulleys. If no work has been done on the engine a simple way is to listen to the engine as it is running. An engine that is out of time when at idle and being revved will run unevenly, have rough acceleration and possibly a lack of power. If it is really far out of timing it will make lots of nasty noises as the valves hit the pistons.
If your setting up the engine after major work, like a timing belt change or a head gasket replacement, You MUST use the timing marks on the crank and camshaft pulleys to avoid doing serious damage.

Jess? Your car just has one drive belt(no timing belt,thank God!).
You might have already gotten this done,since I just saw this 6 day old post.
Remove anything that is in the way(expansion tank,etc.
Get the right tool to twist the tensioner to loosen the belt. Take a picture in good light of the drivebelt and how it configures before you loosen it,in case you don''t have a diagram on the inside of the hood or top inside where hood latches.
It takes pretty good strength to hold the tensioner over so use a long handled wrench or breaker bar.Make sure you NOTE how the belt came off so you can install it the same way.
While the belt is off is a good time to check all pulleys and the tensioner and for play in the water pump pulley.(:^) don-ohio

Hope this helps ya.. Cobra... :-)


Item Part Number Description 1 10344 Generator pulley 2 8620 Drive belt 3 8A528 Water pump pulley 4 3D673 Power steering pump pulley 5 63126 Crankshaft vibration damper 6 2E884 A/C clutch pulley 7 6B209 Drive belt tensioner 8 19A216 Belt idler pulley 9 19A216 Belt idler pulley

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Item Part Number Description 1 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 2 2882 A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket 3 19703 A/C Compressor 4 6C348 Accessory Drive Belt Routing Pulley 5 10346 Generator 6 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 7 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 8 8509 Water Pump Pulley 9 — Bolt A — Tighten to 70-95 Nm (52-70 Lb-Ft)

Hello there
please click on the diagram link for the rou8ting diagram
5060935
Belt Routing Diagram Multiple Accessory
hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

TO REPLACE DRIVE BELT YOU LOOSEN DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT BOLT SLIP THE BELT OFF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND REMOVE IT. IF YOU GOT A 2.5L ENGINE YOU HAVE TO ROTATE THE BELT TENSIONER TO RELEASE TENSION ON THE SERPENTINE DRIVEBELT.YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL.IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO ADJUST DRIVE BELT AND MEASURE THE DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION USING A STRAIGHT EDGE RULER.

I purchased the timing belt and pulley kit for a 1999 zr2 complete instructions came with the pulley set (Dayco brand) also bought the Haynes manual for the escort and not very good directions in it. The one that came from Dayco were very good.

yea you need to reset the timing r the timing belt is off by a couple teeth

I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.

Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.

It's time-consuming, as requires removing aux drivebelt (with alternator etc on it), and the cam belt. Well worth replacing the cam belt, aux belt and crankshaft oil seal while there. It's quite hard, but no special tools needed - except the Honda manual/instructions for setting up correctly (unless you mark the belt and replace exactly on pulleys).