I need a new high pressure line that goesfrom the compresser to the tank where do i go`?

the fuel is constantly rotating round the fuel lines, the fuel is pressurized, so any fuel that is not used by the injectors is sent back to the tank.. this give a constant flow and pressure to the tank. the pressure in the tank is regulated by the pressure relay that lets air into the tank to lower the pressure. this is regulated by the ecu and your speed. if the pressure drops or is to high in the tank the engine can cut out on the fuel rail there is a fuel pressure regulator this keeps pressure on the fuel line coming into the injection system. some systems have duel line feeds from the tank for 2 rail systems, this system was not reliable due to the amount of feed pressure needed to fuel 2 lines. and can cause pressure leaks. some systems have a pressure regulator controlled by the ecu on the return line, this is more fuel efficient as it keeps the fuel at a steadier flow back to the tank and give a better fuel spray into the engine. hope this help you.

Use compression barb fittings on the pressure side with fuel injection line NOT REGULAR FUEL HOSE THE REGULAR HOSE WONT HOLD UP TO THE PRESSURE. The return line can be regular fuel line because of the low pressure.

I recommend safety changes to prevent ruptured water heater and assorted leaks.
135 degree hot water.
Maybe replace TP valve if it is dripping.
Drip pan under water heater with 3/4" drain line to outside.
Expansion tank on incoming cold water line to absorb pressure build-up, and prolong life of tank and plumbing.

Here's why:

1) Yes you can have scalding hot water.

2) I recommend 135 degrees since that will burn the evil right out of ya. And generally kill clothes washing bacteria.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) 150 is dangerous and can seriously burn skin in 1.5 seconds. Not safe around children and elderly.

4) Temperature settings on electric water heater are approximate, since thermostats are calibrated approximately, and read temperature through tank wall.

5) Also if you want to increase amount of hot water for high-consumption household, then setting tank temperature upward is one solution since more cold water is mixed with hot, so amount of hot inside tank goes further.

6) High temperature can cause TP valve to release water.
TP valve is pressure-temperature safety valve. Do NOT cap off.
Rating should be 125 psi and 180 degrees ... but all things water heater are approximate, and TP valves need replacement now and then.
It is not recommended by water heater manufactures to use 150 psi TP valve when water heater came with 125 psi. Rating shows in small print on end of TP. New TP valves sold at local hardware. Let tank cool before installing new one.

7) Higher temperature and high pressure can rupture tank.
Pressure over 80 psi shortens life of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Put BTG100 pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to check pressure.

8) You need a drip pan with 3/4" drain line to outdoors, or to drain vent line, to prevent flood caused by ruptured water heater.
Turn water heater off when going on vacation.
Inspect water heater each 6 months.
Drip pan available at local home center or hardware:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#drip

9) Heated water expands and puts pressure on tank and pipes.
Water does not compress... so when water gets hotter it expands against tank wall and against pipes.
Especially in closed system (check valve present) when system is without expansion tank.
Expansion tank is installed on incoming cold water line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#expansion

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

it sounds like the pressure switch needs replacing as this unloads the machine from the check valve up to the heads if pressure present when trying to restart it will cause it to trip when machine stops should get air leaking from under pressure switch for 1-2 seconds then it will stop

The first thing is fuel delivery. Check and fuel filter for crud, next if thats ok check your fuel line for loose connections that would allow air into the line. ( is your pump ball hard?) if not check to see if anti siphon valves in the line which are on either side of the ball. To check this problem remove tthe line from the tank and the engine, and with the end that came from the engine held up high have some one let the pressure off the end that went into tank and then while doing that u lret the pressure off the connector that went into engine. Resusts are if valves are working Very little gas will flow from the line. GAS BE CAREFUL!!!. Next is cloged carb , then possibly electrical failure in high speed circuits. Check compression and clean or replace plugs is another couple ides. Chas

The 1/4" line is very necessary and there are no adjustments on it. When the tank reaches full the pressure switch turns off the power and opens the valve to the 1/4" line to bleed off pressure from the air pump and feed tube so the motor can turn over the next time the tank drops to the kick in pressure. Every time the pressure switch turns the motor off a small amount of air should be heard coming out of the bottom of the switch for three to five seconds and then it should stop completely. If air continues to leak out of the switch by the 1/4" line, you have a bad tank check valve. The tank check valve is the brass fitting at the other end of the 1/4" line where the feed tube from the air pump goes into the tank. It keeps air in the tank after the pressure switch turns off the motor. Easy to replace, find the one you need for your model compressor.

See Figure 1
Two different electric fuel pump configurations were used on fuel injected models. One consists of a low pressure in-tank boost pump in conjunction with an external, frame-mounted high pressure pump. The low pressure pump is used to provide pressurized fuel to the inlet of the high pressure pump and helps prevent noise and heating problems. System pressure is controlled by a pressure regulator mounted on the engine.
The other configuration consists of an in-tank high pressure pump which does not utilize a boost pump.

Fig. Fig. 1: Disassembled electric fuel pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

In-Tank Pump
See Figures 2, 3 and 4

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Depressurize the system and drain as much gas from the tank by pumping out through the filler neck.
3. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
4. Disconnect the fuel supply, return and vent lines at the right and left side of the frame.
5. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump.

Fig. Fig. 2: Low pressure in-tank electric fuel pump

Fig. Fig. 3: High pressure in-tank fuel pump

Fig. Fig. 4: Removal of electric fuel pump

1. Support the gas tank, loosen and remove the mounting straps. Remove the gas tank.
2. Disconnect the lines and harness at the pump flange.
3. Clean the outside of the mounting flange and retaining ring. Turn the fuel pump lock ring counterclockwise and remove.
4. Remove the fuel pump.

To install:

1. Clean the mounting surfaces. Put a light coat of grease on the mounting surfaces and on the new sealing ring. Install the new fuel pump.
2. Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Start the vehicle and check electric fuel pump operation. Check for fuel leaks.

High Pressure External Pump
See Figure 5

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Depressurize the fuel system.
3. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.
4. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines.
5. Detach the electrical harness connection.
6. Bend down the retaining tab and remove the pump from the mounting bracket ring.
7. Install in reverse order. Make sure the pump is indexed correctly in the mounting bracket insulator. Start the vehicle and check electric fuel pump operation. Check for fuel leaks.

Fig. Fig. 5: High pressure external fuel pump

You'll need to look at the lines from under the passenger side of the car. Often, it's a high pressure line. They have compressed fitting on the hoses that often leak, due to the high pressure.

need a couple of jacks some extra hands a couple of 2x2 pieces if plywood the tank is awkward around 5 +ft long --- open gas cap relieve pressure- disconnect neg battery cable- drain tank (siphon)-raise and support on stands-remove shield from tank-disconnect fuel lines (compression tool )-disconnect lines from fuel fill-set jacks and wood or able to borrow a transmission jack support tank remove tank strap bolts and straps lower tank slightly enough to reach top and disconnect elect connections from fuel pump lower tank and remove

That little copper line is an unloading line, to bleed compressed air out of the compressor head so that the motor can more easily start the compressor. Pressor switch should be threadded into top of air tank, and the unloading valve is built into the side of the switch. When the tank reaches the high pressure setting the switch disconnects power to the motor and opens the unloading valve at the same time. The unloading valve should be connected to the compressor discharge line through a check valve with an unloading valve port upstream of the check valve. These valves are usually threaded into the top of the air tank as well. Sounds to me like your valve was leaking and someone bypassed it.