How do you make adjustments, towards the shot or towards center of the target?

Ok, set your air rifle in a Vise.
Take a target, look down the barrel of the air rifle and move the target until it is centered on the hole in the barrel.
Adjust the sight until it is centered on the target.
After that the only thing that you need to do is adjust for the range (distance/elevation/vertical setting) of the target.

Regards
Geoff

Hi,
What is the type of choke you are using? You want a FULL choke for the tightest pattern. Then you need to "pattern" your shotgun. Put a large piece of cardboard (4' x 4') on a range backstop at 20 yards and place a highly visible 3 inch orange dot or simply draw a 3 inch letter x in the middle of the cardboard. Take a string, 36 inches long and staple it to the center of the dot or X then tie a pencil on the other end. Stretch the string out and draw a perfect circle on the cardboard 36 inches from the center, then remove the string and pencil. From a shooting bench, use a shooting rest to steady your aim. Shoot at the center dot or X by pointing the shotguns bead sight directly at the dot or x
Look at the pattern of holes the shot pellets made. If they are mostly centered within the 36 inch circle, your hold would be right on the target. If they would, say, be up from center, the hold would be below the target. Up and to the right, the hold would be down and to the left, etc.
A gunsmith can correct this and make the gun shoot so that your hold would be on the target instead of trying to compensate for the barrel characteristics of your shotgun.

the scope is fine, you're adjusting it the wrong way.
maybe it's you that's backwards. (i'm just jealous you have something that shoots arrows)

You need a target with grids set it at desired distants take three shots at the top or bottom of your breath don\'t pull the trigger squize it the shot should almost be a suprize to you and make sure you are in a pron or steeded position then retive target draw a line to each hole find the middle count how many bloks to center up and over or down and over then open the adjusting caps most scopes are 1-2 clicks for every 1/4 inch then take three more at the same distance position with the same breathing and repeat after that the next three should be right in the middle hope that helps

You would sight in an air rifle scope in the same manner as any other standard scope that you might find on a rifle:

You want to secure the rifle as best you can with the sights pointed towards a target, which should be set at the desired distance.

Reduce the error of your sight adjustments either by mounting the rifle in a gun mount or simply resting the stock (not the barrel!) on a solid surface such as a table.

Make sure that the weight of the rifle is carefully supported and the **** is firmly pressed into your shoulder. Looking through the sights, aim at the very center of the target (which for your purposes can be as simple as a piece of paper with a dot drawn in the middle).

Take time to ensure a careful shot, and be sure to avoid any shaking, utilizing the support of the mount/table (try resting the fore-grip of the stock on a roll of paper towels if you're having trouble keeping the rifle steady).

Once you are confident with the placement of the cross-hairs over the center of the target, gently squeeze (don't pull) the trigger.

Determine where the pellet struck the target, and adjust the scope accordingly; while every scope is a little different, the same basic principles for adjustment apply. Unscrew the caps on the top and side of the scope, and carefully read the markings on the adjustment dials.

If the pellet struck low, twist the dial on the top of the scope 'up' (the markings should specify clockwise/counter), and if the pellet struck high, twist in the opposite direction. If the pellet struck to the left or right, follow the same procedure for the dial on the side of the scope.

If the pellet struck low and to the side, make the vertical (up/down) adjustments first, repeat the shot, and only move on to make adjustments left/right once the pellet strikes in vertical alignment with the center of the target.

Take your time, and adjust in increments of only 2-3 clicks to start. Repeat the procedure until the pellets are striking consistently in the center of the target (if you're having a hard time remembering which shot went where, replace the target and continue.

Once you are satisfied with placement of your shot groupings on the targets, replace the dial covers on the scope.

Tips and Notes:
- In order to maintain the accuracy of your rifle, try to avoid resting the rifle on its scope and try to prevent the barrel from contact.

- Take note of your rifle's range, and be aware that the further away you place the target, the less consistent your results will be.

- Be realistic; don't attempt to sight in an air rifle at 50 yards. Remember that even with a rifle that has been professionally sighted, good results still come down to the accuracy of the shooter.

-Sight in your rifle at a range where you are confident in your own abilities; start with a closer target and only move back (i.e. sight in at a greater distance) if necessary.

Further Instruction:
http://www.chuckhawks.com/sight-in_rifle.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLirsAFpsfE

Here is an excellent article on zeroing scopes:

http://www.outdoorpros.com/How-To-Guides/How-To-Zero-A-Rifle-Scope/5

The Bushnell 3-9X40 has been around for quite some time in several forms, but it is pretty standard to set it like any other scope.

With the gun resting solidly on sand bags or something like a Lead Sled, shoot at a target with a 1" grid on it. Those targets are a free download at http://targetz.com/, but you have to browse to find them. Targets No: 10049 or 10058 are both usable, if you can see a 1" aiming point with a 9 power scope at 200 yards.

With a known point of impact (POI) at 200 yards, you can move the POI to where you want it (inside the caps at the center of the scope, there are adjusting screws or slots). The norm is 1/4" per click (the adjuster can usually be felt to click) at 100 yards or four 1/4" clicks for an inch. At 200 yards, the adjustment will be twice what it is at 100 yards or 1/2" per click.

Make your adjustments, using the grid on the target to tell you how many inches it needs to move, and shoot the target again to confirm the adjustment is correct. It's pretty standard to shoot at least a three shot group to ensure the bullets are reasonably close to each other.

Another method is to set the POI at a certain number of inches high at 100 yards and assume it's right at 200 yards. If the mid range trajectory, for your cartridge, at 200 yards is X inches high at 100 yards, you can set your POI to that X inches high and be pretty close at 200 yards.

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

Real simple Scott.
You can 'Zero' your scope/rifle even if you don't have a laser bore-scope device.
All this is assuming that your used rifle has not had the barrel shot out and that the head-space is still within specs for that rifle. Have all this checked by a gunsmith first. You can dress up a piece of poop and it will be pretty, but still be poop. Make sure yours isn't to begin with. As for the scope, it's hard to tell unless there's obvious damage or it's an antique past it's prime. Try to get as good a quality scope as possible to start with. You would not put one ply tube tires on your mustang and expect to get the best performance, so...
Most rifles are capable of shooting quite accurately, and all things being equal, it's the shooters job of making it happen.
Ammunition should be considered as well. Toss your old military ball ammo and junk from overseas, both of'em. If you want to shoot accurately and consistently, you must spend the bucks for the best ammo you can afford.
You MUST KNOW what the BALLISTICS are for the Cal./type/weight ammo you will be shooting and the corresponding distance it will be shot from.

Make sure your rifle is CLEAN inside and out. A clean rifle is a happy rifle.
Make sure that your rifle 'fits' your body's frame and that you are familiar and practice good rifle shooting techniques.
'Zeroing' is best done from the prone position as that is the most steady position to shoot from.
Do you have a bi-pod attached? Whether you do or not, sandbag your rifle securely but still able to make small adjustments to the rifle position itself.
Set up a target with a 1" black dot at 50rds.
Remove the bolt.
Lay down with your rifle but stay OFF of it, touch it as little as possible at this point.
With out disturbing the rifle look through the bore downrange to your target. Locate the black dot and if necessary adjust your rifle from the **** end until you can see the dot through the bore. Keep making minor adjustments until the dot appears to be centered in the bore. Make sure rifle is secure and steady at this point.
Then without moving or touching the rifle, look through the scope using the correct eye relief distance and locate the black dot. Now using the Vertical(Elevation) and Horizontal(Windage) adjustment knobs, move the reticles(crosshairs) until they both are centered on the dot.
Again look through the bore to make sure that you have not moved the rifle and that the dot is still centered in the bore. If not, adjust the rifle again to center the dot, then go back to the scope and adjust as necessary to move the RETICLES to the center of the dot. It may be necessary to repeat this a few times before you have achieved this particular goal.
You do not mention brand/model of your scope. It probably adjusts the reticle or crosshairs in 1/4minute increments (1/4 inch increments with each individual click movement of the turret knobs at 100 yard distance). IT IS CRITICAL for you to know how your own scope adjusts.
Now, bolt back in and load 3 rounds of quality ammo.
You are going to shoot 3 rounds in succession without getting off the rifle or making any adjustments to the rifle or scope. You are looking for a 3 shot group to determine a rough average of how far and where the rounds are impacting initially. Use good shooting techniques, breath control, relax, sight picture, squeeeeeeze the trigger, follow through the scope, there is no need to take your eye off the scope while doing this, hold your shooting position for all 3 shots.
You will now have to make adjustments of the scope unless you are hitting the black dot already which is quite possible.
Remember that if your scope is a 1/4" adjustment at 100yds, it means that for each 'click' that you adjust either Vertically or Horizontally at 100rds, the reticle/crosshairs will move accordingly 1/4 of an inch Vertically or Horizontally. At 200yds, one click will move it 1/2 inch, at 300yrd it will move it 3/4 of an inch, at 400yrd, it will be 1 inch.
Right now you are at 50yrds distance from your target. Each click from here will move the RETICLES about 1/8 of an inch so estimate the distance that your most central shot of the 3 you fired, is from the black dot and adjust accordingly. You're not moving the RIFLE here, you are simply moving the scope RETICLES so that your point of aim and point of impact coincides.
Now load 3 more rounds of ammo and repeat as above. You should only have to use about 9 rounds to get on target, the black dot.
Once you are hitting the black dot at the 50yrd line, move back to the 100yrd line. Put a fresh black dot on your target and repeat the steps from above. Your first 3 shots from the 100yrd line should be about 1/2 to 1 inch low. Don't follow the bullet strikes! Keep your point of aim and the crosshairs ON the black dot no matter where the bullets are striking on the target. Remember, now at 100yrds your RETICLES will move 1/4inch with each 'click' of adjustment of the turret knobs.
Adjust the scope as needed at this point. Once you are 'ON TARGET'(hitting the black dot), you now have your 100yrd. 'ZERO'.
Now that you have this 100yrd ZERO, you must loosen the turret knobs , both the Vertical(Elevation) and the Horizontal(Windage) turrets and align the '0' on the knobs with the '0' on the scope at the base of each knob. Now tighten the set screws and you are set to go. If you want to know your 200yrd 'ZERO', simply move back to the 200yrd line, your 'come-up' or elevation adjustment should be about 7-9 clicks, at least for .308 168grn HPBT, but you will figure it out for the Cal./brand/wght ammo you are using. WHATEVER the 'come-up' you need to make at 200, 300,400yrds or wherever, be sure to make note of the number of clicks you used to find the Zero for that distance. Use a fine point endelible marker and actually write the ZERO info on thestock of your rifle. You don't need to mark anything for the 100yrd ZERO, it's a given already. Write; 200/9, 300/18 and so on. You should also get your ZERO for the intermidiate, 150yrd, 250yrds etc, distances as well.
Remember that weather conditions, source and intesity of light conditions, your own body condition at any particular moment or day can have an affecf on how you and/or your rifle shoot. Good luck.

Yes there is a Service Code you have to have to get into Alinement menu and its a Dog following step by step to get in! (1) Turn set on cable (2) Turn sleep timer on 30 min (3) Press Action Twice exit menu 4) now tune to ch 124 (5) adjust vol half way down (6) Now Press vol- on front of TV ,now you should see a RED chk appear in upper corner (7) Now Power on remote hand unit and you shiuld be in menu Press cursor to move Mute locks where you want to aline ADJUST with vol-,Vol+ ch- ch+ for up&down back and forth.If you need anymore help let me know .

Press R-tune to change R-G-B