That freezer has a mechanical thermostat - when you turn the temperature dial its shaft acts on the position of the electrical contacts inside it: it raises and lowers them making their contact temperature dependent. In time the minute sparks generated when the contact is made makes the contact points rough and oxidized - this makes them either snag and keeping the contact when they shouldn't or prevents them from making contact when they should.
The fix is simple: you replace the thermostat. Here it is
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2113836
And here is the install schematic
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2113836
Not all refrigerators are insulated the same and not all condensers are in the same place. Your cold control is monitoring the temperature of the refrigerator section and is designed to turn off the compressor to keep things from freezing in that section. If it stays cold long enough outside in your garage the cold control thinks its cold enough and won't turn the compressor on. So, having it in your garage could be the problem.
Make sure you don't have a defrost problem.
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
186 views
Usually answered in minutes!
A few things:
- This is an upright freezer, not a refrigerator, so having things freeze is a good thing.
- The inside of the freezer is always very cold and all food is fully frozen.
- The problem is that it's staying on almost all of the time, not that food is defrosting.
Please re-read my problem description. Thanks.
I will order and install. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help!
×