I have no sound from one channel. I have swapped speaker leads (sound just swops with the speaker). I have taken lead out of CD player and touched ends of leads for "earth hum". Only get hum on one lead. To check it wasn't the lead, I swapped leads. Got the same result. I have taken the cover off the amplifier but can't find an easy way to get a look at the fuses (they seem to be in a most awkward place). However, if a fuse has blown, that surely indicates a much more serious problem? No I don't have a meter but I probably know someone who does if that is required.

Try swapping the Left and Right speakers with the following procedure, observing correct polarity of wires:
[i] Label both speaker leads and speakers first to avoid confusion with restoring to same configuration.
L and R is good enough, masking tape suitable.
[i] Swap entire driver / lead assemblies.
Does left channel still not work?
If so then problem is amp.
If fault now swaps to R ch then amp is ok - problem external.
Return to original L&R config.
[ii] Disconnect leads at speaker ends only (power off).
Swap drivers only so leads are still same L&R but drivers now R&L.
Power up and test.
L channel fault = lead or connector fault.
R channel fault = driver fault.
Return to original L&R config.
With a multimeter:
Check buzzer-continuity of leads + + & - - end-to-end.
Check ohms of speakers closely match specified impedance.

is your satellite an external device? and if so what kind of adaptor or harness does it use to hook up with main radio?

First check the speakers by connecting to front connector if thr no sound then replace the speakers.If you here sound while swap the rear amp IC might be damaged replace the IC .

Pioneer stereo's have an inbuilt protection circuit which switches off the amp if there is a short circuit on any of the speaker leads. Check all speakers and leads for wires touching togeather or touching any metal part of the car.

You can try swapping the speakers over to see if the fault goes to the other channel. Remove the speaker leads from the input on the right channel and put them into the left channel input after removing the leads from those terminals, and if the fault goes there as well, then the problem is in your right channel speaker

Hi, if you still need a photocopy of instructions email me [email protected]

If you want instructions in brief this involves POWER CONNECTIONS, PHONO LEAD & SPEAKER CONNECTIONS:

POWER (At the same time when routing these wires, I would connect the PHONO LEADS from the car cd player to the amp, if your car cd player only has 1 preout (1red & 1 white) then you will need two phono splitters, a female to 2 males. Phono leads carry the unamplified sound from cd player to the amp):
~ Permanent 12V+ (Thick lead that is fused direct from battery all the way to the amp, wire must be 20a to 30a +, hence 1cm diameter wire, known as AWG8, Maplin sell cheaper kits then most)
~ Amp REMOTE (A thin insulated cable (5a is OK) from car cd player amp remote wire, this turns the amp on when the cd player is on, if your car doesn't have an amp remote wire, suggest nearest ignition supply or seperate switch that you turn on when you want to turn on the amp)
~ GrouND 12V- (Insulated lead (20a to 30a) to nearest part of unpainted car chassis such as interior panel screw hole, instead of an insulated cable all the way from the batery, this is common practise.

SPEAKER:
Each speaker has a - negative & + positive, these must connected correctly. The amp has 4 channel, 2 channel labeled as front, 2 channels labeled as rear. Using speaker wire, connect cable from amp to speakers. Note: Ensure the speakers being connected only receive sound from the amp (Not cd player as well, as would damage players or at the very least impair sound)
The amp has a feature called bridgeable this means a sub 8" or 10" sub can be powered by 'bridging' two channels. For example there are 2 ways to bridge power a Sub on the NIKKAI EAPA450:
i) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel RL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel RR.
OR
ii) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel FL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel FR.

Switches:
~ Bass boost, meant to be on for a channel if using sub, otherwise off.
~ X-over mode adjust hi/lo frequencies, only work if both x-over switches are on! Then adjust switch frequency knob, until it sounds right.
~ Gain (Volume knob) adjust volume knob up or down, until it sounds right!

NOTE:
You will need patience! many hand tools and parts such as: Wiring kit, fuse holder 20a/30a, Phono leads, speaker cable, Fork/ring connectors, wire strippers, wire cutters, set of screw drivers, also ueful to have zip ties to tdy excess cable and 'P' cable clips to tidy speaker wire to shelf, etc.

OK

Any more questions just email me [email protected]

swap out put channels and see if the hum goes to the other side if so its a faulty lead

Have you tried swopping over the output leads from the turntable to the amp (normally one red and one white phono plug) so they are in each others socket? If you do this and you still get no sound from the right channel it is almost certain to be a faulty amp,or speaker.
If you swop and get no sound from the LEFT channel it is could be either a faulty lead or cartridge.

You may possibly have a fault with the RED RCA output plug on your CD possibly a loose wire on the internal side or a faulty plug altogether. Try plugging it into another stereo and see if the problem replicates itself.... if so then i am sure that will be the case.

I would suspect the lead from your tv or video and swap this.ie where are you feeding tv signal to amp from.more than likely faulty lead or socket at this point.swap around the leads and see does fault transfer to the opposite channel.keep with it sounds like set up problem of some sort,.