Engine stalls at 30mph upon hitting accellerator, then coasts to a stop. then won't restart. starter works, engine turns over, but won't fire up. next morning car starts fine. next week engine stalls again at 30 mph upon accelleration. so far, replaced throttle-bottle, spark-plugs, did stress test on coils turned out negative. 2 ford dealers and 1 mechanic shop so far cannot get it to recur. no codes. all baffled.

sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.

change the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure

Typically this is a sign of a faulty crankshaft position sensor.

Your problem could be in the Transmission, but most likely it is caused by a sensor / electric part called an Accellerator-Pedal-Position-Sensor (APP-Sensor. If it is the APP Sensor, then you should be getting a signal in the information center saying "reduced power" or a Check-Engine Light.

Check for vacuum hose leaks.

when you state it wouldn't crank, do you mean the starter won't engage or that it just spins over and doesn't start? if no gauges or no starter engagement, then check the battery, battery connections,and the starter for excessive amperage draw. if the starter spins and the engine won't start, then check crankshaft position sensor first. the crank sensor is a more common failure than the distributor or any of the other things you mentioned.

sorry turns over means ZERO
the crank shaft can spin or not
the starter can in fact spin and crankshaft not.
and some think turns over means, engine runs. now that fact makes turns over, a dead statement.

the word is cranks over, the engine cranks over robustlyl
and then the engine runs.
then runs for more that 3 seconds, and the ASD relay holds. (step by step his works like this ,93 to now)

wont crank ? (clear statement in fact)
cranks ok, (crank shaft spins fast) can be seen and heard.
runs for 3 seconds? and stalls (ASD relay drop out) can be seen.
runs for 5min and stalls. (complex)
runs for hours and stalls. (even more complex)
all are key facts to the solution.

tell more..... tell all it does good bad or ugly
for better suggestions!

Hello first of all


well i am sorry a mechanic cant figure this out its really sad. ok so your problem is your either one of two things but most likely the first one i list.

1. camshaft postion sensor
2. crankshaft postion sensor

Now that being said it most likely the camshaft sensor the reason i say that is when a crankshaft postion sensor is bad the car has very hard starts and most of the time no start issues. When a camshaft postion sensor is bad the car cuts off whil driving and can be hard to start up again.

So that being said they are both pretty cheap parts i would go ahead and replace them both and i would bet my 5 years as ford mechanic that solves your issue.

The crank postion sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer pully or right beside it here is a picture from autozone.com and description.

The crankshaft position sensor identifies position of the crankshaft to the ignition control module (ICM), engine control module (ECM) or powertrain control module (PCM).

When not replaced, vehicle could experience no- or hard start, long crank time, misfire, lack of power, excessive hydrocarbons in oil, spark plug fouling, catalytic converter failure, poor fuel economy, CEL/MIL illumination or intermittent shutdown.

Designed to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function.

Global coverage for import and/or domestic applications.

And the camshaft sensor picture and info from autozone.com below.

The camshaft position sensor identifies position of the camshaft to the ignition control module (ICM), engine control module (ECM) or powertrain control module (PCM).

When not replaced, vehicle could experience no- or hard start, long crank time, misfire, lack of power, excessive hydrocarbons in oil, spark plug fouling, catalytic converter failure, poor fuel economy, CEL/MIL illumination or intermittent shutdown.

Designed to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function.

Global coverage for import and/or domestic applications.

The crankshaft postion sensor is 22.99 and the cam is 19.99 so 50.00 bucks and about hours time should have you up and running.

PS if this helps please 4 thumbs up it helps me continue to help on here thanks

I would be getting the battery checked and while your doing that clean both the leads.

for starter problem check wire connection at starter,theres a single plug in wire that forms some corrosion clean it and it should work fine after.for other problem is check engine light on or came on,does it idle ok?