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First question: What are you cutting? Are you cutting wood? If you're using fence, I need you to make adjustments on it . The nature of the band saw is to drift either left or right being parallel with the band saw fence. Is the blade tension too tight or insufficient? Check your manual for correct tension or you can just see in the tension gauge on your saw. Please this blog on how to check the correct blade tension . What is your feed and speed rate? Make sure the you're not feeding the wood too slow or too fast. Are you using new blade? Your blade is may be dull or low quality. I purchased my blades on www.sawblade.com . Their Haltbar 201 Series works great on general wood cutting. Last question, have you taken up time to tune up your saw? See this blog for your reference.
The blade is no longer sharp, something not unusual after about an hour of cutting. How long a blade stays sharp depends on what type of wood you're cutting, whether the blade contacted the ground or anything other than wood at any time, and how hard you are working the bar through the wood. If you are cutting hardwood or something like railroad ties the lifespan of the blade is greatly reduced. You can easily sharpen the blade with a hand file or dremel tool with a chain saw blade kit on it or have the blade sharpened. Best practice is to have one or two extra blades so you can change them as they become dull.
Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%) Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem. These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
use a combination sliding square to mark ecxactly where you want to cut. Measure the distance from the jig-saw blade to the edge of the jig-saw bottom plate. Use this distance to mark another line parralel to the first line. Nail or screew a straight piece of wood on the second line. Put the jig-saw plate against the wood fence and cut your perfect line.
High Speed Steel - Used for wood and light metal cutting
Bi-Metal - Also used for wood and light metal cutting.
Cobalt Steel - Tougher and lasts longer than Speed steel and Bi-Metal. Used for wood and metal.
Carbide Grit - Strictly used to cut masonry board.
Scrolling - Thinner than the regular jig saw blades and are used for tight turning cuts.
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