A transmission problem, I doubt it is worth the repair cost.
SOURCE: Leak from maytag top load coin machine during spin drain cycle only
Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim
SOURCE: Maytag won't spin or agitate
I have had the same problem and found that the teeth on the under side of the agitator had been worn down to nothing... I assume this is from years of over loading (not from me) and so the agitator could not spin any more... i would tighten the bolt that holds th agitator on and it would come loose after a few loads. So my solution was to get a little bit longer bolt and newer plastic washer and tighten it as tight as i could and it seemed to work. Versus buying a new agitator base that would cost about $20-$30 and would have to wait for the part to be ordered. hope this helps
SOURCE: washing machine maytag performa
This problem is normally attributed to a combination of two things: A worn out snubber ring, and a worn brake assembly.
The snubber ring assembly is a white teflon ring that sits under the wash tub at the base (called the milk stool, because it looks like an upside down milk stool). The entire wash tub assembly will rest on the snubber as it helps get rid of vibration while the tub agitates and spins. When the snubber starts to wear down, you will notice an increase in tub vibration during the spin cycle and it will sometimes begin to squeak. NOTE: YOU CANNOT OIL THE SNUBBER! DOING SO CAN CAUSE MORE DAMAGE.
The brake assembly is mounted between the pulley wheel and transmission under the washer. As the brake assembly ages, the pad (which is mounted along the rim of a metal disc) begins to glaze over. As it glazes, it will also squeak and cause the sudden "slamming" to a stop. The glazing, coupled with humidity in the air can make this condition worse.
Both problems occur normally with this model washer and can be attributed to normal wear and tear. I recommend replacing the brake assembly and snubber at the same time. You will need, however, a special Maytag brake removal tool and spring removal tool if you decide to attempt this repair yourself (it is possible to accomplish this without the aid of a repairman). Let me know if you need further assistance. CAUTION: THERE IS A 200 LB COMPRESSED SPRING UNDER THE BRAKE HOUSING. ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE COVER WITHOUT THE BRAKE REMOVAL TOOL CAN BE DANGEROUS.
SOURCE: MAYTAG PERFORMA is leaking
the bearing and seal are worn and leaking. if the machine is a good oe and the repair cost is reasonable, i would have it repaired. contact your local repairshop and determione the cost vs replacement of machine
SOURCE: MAYTAG WASHING MACHINE
The rubber smell is the belt from the motor to the tub. The grinding sound is/was the tension pulley that keeps the belt tight. The bearing on the pulley probably went out and now the belt is burning because of the friction of sliding around the pulley. The belt and the pulley need to be replaced. If you have the room, turn off and disconnect the hoses. Unplug the electrical cord from the wall outlet. Remove the drain hose and any water in the tub. Carefully tip the washer over backwards, DO DROP IT!!! Now you should be able to see the motor, tub, tension pulley, and belt. With a basic 3/8' drive socket set, probably metric, and a couple of screw drivers you should be able to remove the belt and the pulley. Take the belt, pulley, and model numbers to an applicance parts store and buy replacements.
I only suggest this because I hate paying labor. If you are not machanically inclined then you are going to have to pay the labor.
Good Luck
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