Is there a fuse in this amp? is it replaceable without soldering?

if the wires are sodered on to yhe ends of the fuse you can carefully cut them right at the fuse but i would hold my sodering tip on the weld and pull the wire off when the solder melts. Unfortunatly you would have to solder a new fuse back in being realy,really carefull about how long u leave the heat on as it could cook the fuse Sounds like a job for a repairman as you dont want to be frying anything else or altering a good amp and if they screw it up they have to take care of it. please let me know how it goes,im curious.

Not sure about the KB-1, but many newer Peavey amps
( A Vyper for example)
have the fuse soldered to the circuit board.
If you're going to go through the effort of soldering, I'd suggest buying, and soldering in, a rear panel accessible fuse holder, so you only need to do it once.

It sounds like there may be an issue with the power amp section of your amplifier. When the distortion gets deep and saturated, it could be drawing too much current and causing the amp to shut down to protect itself. This could be due to a number of reasons, including a faulty power amplifier IC, bad solder joints, or a power supply issue.
You mentioned that you suspect the IC may be getting hot. If that's the case, it's possible that it's overheating and shutting down the amp. You may want to try cooling the IC with a small fan or heatsink to see if that helps. If it does, you may need to replace the IC or look into other cooling solutions.
It's also possible that there are bad solder joints or other issues with the power amp section that are causing the problem. If you're comfortable with electronics repair, you may want to open up the amp and take a look inside to see if there are any obvious issues. Otherwise, it may be best to take the amp to a professional for repair.

If the fuse has blown, it did it because of a failure within the unit. Replacing the fuse MAY cause additional components to be damaged. It is likely the fuse will blow soon after replacing if not immediately. Take unit in for servicing. The unit has high voltages within that if you are not experienced can be lethal. If you are lucky, a vacuum tube has shorted that caused this. If they are changed the amp will need to have bias checked and adjusted.

If the fuse blew, the problem causing that needs to be fixed BEFORE replacing the fuse. Replacing a fuse without fixing MAY damage further components that the fuse protected.

Often the Tolex covering makes removing panels difficult and one has to pry the panels out.

Since the pilot light is on, the transformer is delivering the heater power.

An educated guess at the problem is a crack on the circuit board or bad solder joint. Since NONE of the EL84's are lit, there is likely a crack or soldering at a circuit board feed-thru.

Should be easy to trace. PLEASE be careful as there is around 400 volts in this amp !!!!!

The fuse would be internal. The fuse blew for a reason, and unless you had an accident with the amp such as shorting a speaker lead, there is likely internal damage requiring servicing. Replacing the fuse without curing the original reason it blew will likely cause damage to further components.

Take the unit in for repair.

Probably one side of the power amp has shorted and there is likely several semiconductor transistors and other components requiring replacement, but this amp uses a stick IC power amp.

Copy/pasted from the music forum between the arrows, this is likely the problem in your unit:

>>The schematic is posted in the Enzo gallery at www.ampix.org

The 15 leg power IC on the heat sink is a TDA7293V - it is the power amp for the unit.

The chip with small board attached can be ordered from any Marshall dealer or from places like http://www.marshallparts.com/

I usually buy my 7293s from Mouser. They currently have 622 of them in stock and they sell for $6.48 each. Probably won't run out of them soon. << Hint for you: When powering this up after repair, insert a 100 watt light bulb in series with the line cord into the unit. This will act as a automatic reseting fuse which will save fuses if you haven't got all the "cancer" out of your failed amp. It will allow you to do troubleshooting by limiting the current to a safe value. Also, when replacing the TDA part, be sure and use heat sink compound under it and if an insulator was used, make sure you replace the insulator. ALSO clean the area of any soldering residue and flux BEFORE powering the amp again.

Do not change the fuse without finding out why it is blowen. If the glass is black DO NOT even think of changing it or you will cause more damage.
I think if you take out the fuse you will find the raring under the end caps of the fuse.