What size fuse do i need to use for my speaker protection kit

These are passive speakers, so if there is a fuse at all it will be as a high frequency protection circuit on the crossover.

What\'s the question, are you asking about eyebolts, SRM 450 or McKenzie speakers?



Let\'s assume speakers. These are quite nice vintage speakers and were fitted in a number of units back in the day. Depending on the use they are going to be put to you\'ll need to find the dimensions of similar boxes for the same use and speaker size from (ideally) makers who used these speakers or something similar. It\'s going to be a bit suck it and see and will also depend on if you are looking to use an infinate baffle, sealed or vented enclosure.



Try Speakerplans com

Mackie say this is not a user service part. If the fuse has blown there is probably a fault in the unit being their reasoning. I know for certain they tend to blow for no apparent reason so it is worth giving it a go. They are 5 x 20 Slow or time fuses. 7A for 120V and 4A for 230V

The SP2 speakers are rated at 1000 watts PROGRAM which is around 500 watts RMS MAXIMUM. You should be using an amp capable of a maximum of 500 watts a side... Your amp is WAY too big. You will have to throttle it down. The speakers have the protection for the tweeters but NOT for the woofers. At five hundred watts RMS and 8 ohms the current is: P = I^2 * R so I^2 = 500/8 = 62.5 so MAX current is 7.9 amps. I recommend you put a 8 amp FAST BLOW fuse in the speaker leads. If the fuse blows, you have saved another speaker and you are DRIVING them too hard. For greater safety make the fuse a 7.5 amp fast blow. Also get a sound meter. The max on these speakers is 125 Db at a meter distance... and in your venue you should NOT exceed 100 Db to be safe with the OSHA regulations regarding hearing protection... I suspect you are driving the speakers too hard. One side may be getting more bass. The speakers are rated down to 55 Hz. DO NOT boost bass up as you will overheat the speakers. If you are using microphones, be careful of feedback, especially that above hearing range. If you need real low bass, then get an 18 inch subwoofer. No matter, stay within safe sound levels to avoid lawsuits and hearing loss... I know several deaf musicians...

It may NOT have a fuse. If too much power was sent or an amplifier drove DC to the speaker, the voice coil may have fried. The specs do NOT brag aboput protection, so it is likely either the speaker is blown or the internal wiring is broken. Open the unit and use an ophmmeter to tesst the speakers.

There is a speaker protection network in most of Peavey speakers protecting the tweeter horn.

It consists of a Polyfuse (round disk about the size of a nickle or quarter, a resistor and an incandescent bulb.

Circuit can be found at: (go to last post attachment) http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2260

Copied from earlier post I made for another.

For the MOST PART the lamp is NOT the primary path for the speaker current, the POLYFUSE is and is a low resistance until it is overdriven.

The bulb is a 12 volt bulb and is nominally 2.1 amps when used on 12.8 volts.

If this is in regards to the other problem mentioning 32 watts and 12.8 volts... this bulb is NOT 32 Watts, it is 32 CP or 32 Candlepower which is NOT Watts in general. The lamp is actually around 27 Watts when run at its ratings.

It is important to realize that the lamp and the resistor are there ONLY as a "soft" path when the POLYFUSE opens due to overcurrent. When the polyfuse cools, the lamp and resistors are effectively shorted by the Polyfuse and most of the current again flows through the polyfuse..

This is a problem that may likely require the skills of an experienced repair tech. If you are not comfortable working on electronic devices, find someone who can do it for you. UNPLUG YOUR SPEAKER BEFORE INSPECTING A PROBLEM.

The first place I would look is the FUSE. Each of the speakers contains a power amplifier and each has a fuse that will blow to protect the power transformer, circuit and speakers. If you are getting NO POWER at all to the speaker, check the fuse first. It is located on the AC plug circuit board.

You can download the PDF for the HS series here. It includes all of the circuit diagrams, parts lists and close-up photos of the parts.

If the fuse is not the problem, the speaker's power amp has suffered more sever damage and you would certainly need an experienced technician to diagnose the problem.

Good luck!

Likely an overload failure caused the protect light to come on, and then the fuse blew so all power is off... Do NOT replace the fuse as you will LIKELY do additional damage to components. Take unit in for repair immediately.
Note: These units are really hard to work on due to the way they are packaged.

This needs to go to the repair shop. The protect mode is turned on when either the power supply has a problem or one or both power amplifiers have a problem. These are often blown components.

These units are HARD to work on. To open you have to first remove then front panel before you can remove the back panel that has the power supply and power amps/heat sinks.

Compare repairs of these units to working under an automobile dashboard!

Hint: On startup, use a series 150 wat lamp to limit current while repairing. SInce these use a switching supply operating off the input line, use an isolation transformer for personal safety.