Remove the tubing from the level switch and blow out any sediment that may be obstructing the tubing then re-secure. Yank out the timer molex plug and look for corrosion on the plug. Remove the timer. Remove the sheathing from the timer and turn the barrel with your finger looking for burnt spots on the barrel. That is a sign of arcing contacts. Replace the timer or send it off to be rebuilt if you see burnt spots. I gotta say from looking at this part and being a parts supplyer I never or rare ever sold any of these over the years, they simply don't go bad. Now if yours had a plastic housing yeppers I have sold many of them. Having seen the part I would say you have a bad timer. Try and clear the plastic tubing and make sure it ain't pinched up against the rear of the cabinet where the case fits against the bulkhead. It is supposed to be in the channel alongside the harness. Let me know.
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Thanks for the quick response. Checked the tube and it was clear, tested the level switch and it was fine. I pulled the timer and don't see any corrosion or burnt connectors on the plugs. Not sure what plastic housing piece you're referring to and I'm not sure how to test the timer to confirm if it's failed. Also I don't want to take off the timer sheathing either in case I can't put it back together--technically my washer works and I want to be able to use it until I get the replacement timer. Anyway it has to be the culprit--I get the replacement part this Friday/Saturday so we'll see then. Thanks again for your quick help!
Looks like Sears has the best price today $106
On the white plastic piece I was referring to the newer style water level switches.
I noticed the one you have is the old school style which is a pretty sound part. Not too many of them fail. I had to go to the store for my elderly mother or I woulda got back with ya sooner.
Thanks again for your assistance and no worries about the timing. I got the replacement timer part yesterday, installed it and ran wash cycles yesterday and again today---I'm seeing the same issue which is no rinse cycle meaning water is not entering the tub for the second time after the wash cycle. So far I've replaced the water value and time, and tested the water pressure sensor and I can't figure out why water will not come on the second time. Any ideas?
Well only cold water goes out on rinse to prevent wrinkles. So the cold water solenoid has a loose connection or hose kinked something like that
Thanks. Where do I find the cold water solenoid? And is it replaceable? Thanks in advance for your help.
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SOURCE: I replaced the water pump
the light buzzing noise you are hearing is the coupler...the coupler sits behind the motor. It is 2 three prong plastic pieces with a rubber coupler in the middle. there are 2 clips just like the ones on the water pump that hold the motor on just unclip them and the motor will fall out. that will fix all your problems
SOURCE: Kenmore 110 92293110 washer fills
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.92293110
You've described two separate problems.
1. No Agitate but it will spin and
2. Flooding
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manuals for the top load, direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
1. No Agitate:
When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.
First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.
Following is a description of how to take them out.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.
See the above Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.
I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.
Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.
The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".
The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.
See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.
Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.
If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.
When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.
As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.
2. Leaking:
See the section for the basket and tub assembly's
I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.
You're going to have to pull the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission to check the agitate problem anyway.
See the following:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131
If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.
I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.
If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.
If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.
(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 110 does not spin/agitate/drain
OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.
The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.
If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.
Bearing failure in this machine is very common.
I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.
The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.
If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.
This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,srrtbrrfbdbqgkkxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/bqkfstqqfxrqqbkwgqdxbwsqrwrtq/1/1303472/5961857/image828956817962821589img-or.jpg
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Hi
If the washer is not draining then it is due to a clogged
drain pump, drain filter or a kinked drain hose. Clean the drain hose, inspect
if the drain hose is plugged. Also check the connection to the drain pump and
make sure wiring is fine. Check the electrical connections with a multimeter.
If it still doesn't work then you would need to replace the drain pump. Hope
this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
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