At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Several times I've been able to fix this problem by tightening the bolts that hold the trunk latch. If that doesn't work, order and install a new latch. After fixing the latch, find a friend, and get into the trunk, and make sure that the emergency release (for trapped children) also still works.
It would appear they've blown one channel on the Amplifier and one Tweeter on your Speaker. It's more than likely that the Tweeter has blown first and overloaded the Amplifier.
The Tweeter shouldn't be a problem to replace (eBay more than likely) and you'll probably be better getting a new pair and replacing them both.
The Amplifier could be a different issue depending what Country you're in and your Technical ability?.
If you need any further assistance once you've opened the unit then just ask.
There are no official drivers for CanoScan Lide 30 for Windows XP, so your problem is obvious. I suggest you sending an e-mail at Canon including details about your scanner (date purchased, serial number in text form or scanned) asking them to develop driver set as this model is very trade and at shops since 2006 or 2007.
In case of a problem or clarification, don't hesitate to post.
Thanks and regards Please kindly rate this solution Stelios
Swap the speaker that makes the noise with one of the others. If it acts up on the new channel you know that it's got a fault on it. However if the noise appears on the new speaker the fault is in the amp (perhaps an overheating transitor).
Looking at the picture on fixya of the speakers, it seems unlikely that the speaker units would cause that fault, but the crossover could in it.
First, swap the speakers to see if it stays with the speaker or the amp channel.
Second, disregard the throretical ability of any speaker to handle any amplifier's maximum output. Amp ratings are at a certain power output with a certain amount of distortion. Turn the volume a click higher and power output might rise just a tad but distortion starts to go ballistic. Continue and you get total high current garbage. Clipping (high DC output) will kill any speaker.
Since it seems to go away, I doubt the speaker is damaged, unless torn speaker cone or burnt voice coil can self-repair in a few minutes every time.
Given the relatively small cost of the repair, I'd have the servicer do it. That way if anything happens, he/she is respionsible for it. When I repair this type of speaker, I usually use an old chisel. It is sharp enough to get under the edge and strong enough to pry up the speaker. Just be careful not to nick the cabinet.
the best solution I've found is this: 1. Remove all the tweeter screws. 2. Take a thing metal rod (a coat hanger should work) and lightly tap the tweeter through the top port in the rear until it is loosened and comes out. The tweeter is totally sealed so you probably won't damage it if you need to do this to a working tweeter.
This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.
×