If you were to take everything out of the inside of the freezer and look at the rear wall of the inside of the freezer you will notice there are screws on this panel so that this panel can be removed. Once you removed this panel this would give you access to the evaporator coil. If you look above the coil you will see the culprit that makes them awesome noises you enjoy so much. If you see any ice build up anywere in this area you would defrost it with a hair dryer. This issue is called a defrost problem that your unit is experiencing. This is due to one or more of three basic parts. Two of those parts are located right in the area where you have accessed the evaporator coil. You would need a multimeter and be able to perform an ohms test on each of these next two parts mentioned to diagnose which part or if both had a fault. The first part is called the defrost thermostat which is a small round sensor that is clipped onto one of the copper lines near the top of the evaporator coil. Here is a link to click that is the entire schematic for your machine if the last numbers after the q that you posted were 03 there are three models an 04 as well as an 00. The 03 has 3 more parts listed then the others. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Roper-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-RS22AQXKQ03/0893/0165000?searchedModel=RS22AQXKQ&blt=11
you would then go into the unit section and click that as well your defrost thermostat is part number 35 and the defrost heater is part number 33 do the testing on these parts and if you find no fault message me back and I will explain more on the defrost timer or adaptive control due to the look up site just went down for maintenance. If you have any questions message me those back as well. Thank you
Rick
By unplugging the unit it does defrost the unit and get rid of the ice, but this does not correct the problem from iceing up which it would and you would have the same issue within 3-4 weeks afterwards. The defrost thermostat when conducting an ohms test should read at around.50 ohms or higher. The defrost heater usually reads above 20 ohms. Most of the service calls I go to to repair a refrigerator that has a defrost issue about 80 percent of the time the issue is due to the thermostat. I await your reply if you have any questions. Please also remember when our chat has FULLY concluded to rate how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future.
Thank you again
Rick
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If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2
Top of Form
If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
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