Green lamp is flashing. cooler becomes off and after run it again the airflow is not cold. This problem occure when the air tempreture is high more than 40 degrees of centigrade.thank you for your help. model of product is pk-3fakld. further information: The problem was occured 4to5 days ago at about 14 oclock when the air temprature was about 45 degrees of centigrade. I called an local assistant at first he wanted to inject the gas because he thought of the gas discharge. But he found that the gas capacity is full.so he tried make the motor cool by using water flow.after that he told that the product only can work at nights and mornings and can not work in warm ant hot hours.he thouhts of bad installation of the pruduct. The outdoor unit is fixed on the roof and with higher elevation than indoor unit. He believes this situation causes shortage of oil in motor of unit.

My unit never got to the point of actually shutting down due to overheating, but your problem may be related to what I experienced: A bent lamp heat shield.

My Optoma EP739 started exhibiting color-banding and strong color shift after years of great service. After trying other suggestions that didn't work, here is the FIX for my unit. I have not seen this posted anywhere else.

Problem: After 10-20 minutes of use, color-banding and then a strong shift to purple/green with almost no red. If the unit is turned off for 5-10 minutes to cool and then powered-up again the problem goes away, only to come back in another 10-20 minutes. Enabling the "High Altitude" setting in the Setup Menu helped for a while (a week or two) since it forces the main cooling fan run at high speed always, but then the problem re-appeared.

Reason: Overheating. The electronics are overheating. Like several people have suggested: First step: Open the unit up and blow-out/vacuum all of the accumulated dust. Assure BOTH fans (there is a small drum blower directly cooling the lamp and a larger regular fan that circulates air through the entire unit) are operating and clear of debris.

Once you have done that, then look for the REAL issue. With the front panel (i.e.the panel with the hole for the lens) removed and looking into the projector from the front examine the metal heat shield on the right side above the lamp. In my unit, because of years of service and heat, the aluminum lamp housing had deformed slightly, tilting this sheet metal heat shield directly INTO the air stream from the fan. This restricts the airflow enough to reduce cooling capacity. This metal shield should be high enough above the lamp to be TOUCHING the plastic case. If it is bent down and is halfway into the air stream then it restricting the exhaust airflow, causing the overheating.

Fix: Bend the heat shield back up so that it is not in the exhaust airflow. It must be ABOVE the airflow, protecting the plastic case from the heat of the lamp. This simple remedy fixed the issue for me. My projector has been running 2-3 hours a day for 10 days now with no banding issues at all. That's it. Simple fix.

3 blinks is a lamp cover error, did you make sure that the lamp cover is screwed in tight? Also check the lamp cover for deformity, there is a problem with your model where the set over heats and melts the lamp cover a little causing it not to make connection with the lamp cover switch. Let me know if you find either of these problems? If not we can troubleshoot a little further.

Tim Nolan

My EP739 never got to the point where it actually shutdown due to overheating, but the root-cause may be the same. First thing you must do is clean out any dust and debris that may be restricting airflow. If that doesn't help then read-on...
My Optoma EP739 started exhibiting color-banding and strong color shift after years of great service. After trying other suggestions that didn't work, here is the FIX for my unit. I have not seen this posted anywhere else.

Problem: After 10-20 minutes of use, color-banding and then a strong shift to purple/green with almost no red. If the unit is turned off for 5-10 minutes to cool and then powered-up again the problem goes away, only to come back in another 10-20 minutes. Enabling the "High Altitude" setting in the Setup Menu helped for a while (a week or two) since it forces the main cooling fan run at high speed always, but then the problem re-appeared.


Reason: Overheating. The electronics are overheating. Like several people have suggested: First step: Open the unit up and blow-out/vacuum all of the accumulated dust. Assure BOTH fans (there is a small drum blower directly cooling the lamp and a larger regular fan that circulates air through the entire unit) are operating and clear of debris.

Once you have done that, then look for the REAL issue. With the front panel (i.e.the panel with the hole for the lens) removed and looking into the projector from the front examine the metal heat shield on the right side above the lamp. In my unit, because of years of service and heat, the aluminum lamp housing had deformed slightly, tilting this sheet metal heat shield directly INTO the air stream from the fan. This restricts the airflow enough to reduce cooling capacity. This metal shield should be high enough above the lamp to be TOUCHING the plastic case. If it is bent down and is halfway into the air stream then it restricting the exhaust airflow, causing the overheating.

Fix: Bend the heat shield back up so that it is not in the exhaust airflow. It must be ABOVE the airflow, protecting the plastic case from the heat of the lamp. This simple remedy fixed the issue for me. My projector has been running 2-3 hours a day for 10 days now with no banding issues at all. That's it. Simple fix.

low oil or your fins on your air/oil cooler are restricted (dirty) or poor ventilation .wrong oil .I believe these units run on gyclo based coolants not oil ultra coolant which is i/r brand

Error Indication Information
Error No. Error Information ERROR DESCRIPTION LAMP LED OSD LAMP OFF
(Note 3) (Note 4)
POWER LED TEMP LED
Note:
1.When any of the above errors has occurred, the LED will flash as shown above every 5 seconds.
2.When two or more errors have occurred at the same time, the LED will light up or flash as shown above, and then
change to another every 5 seconds in turn.
3.Warning OSD appears when the Air Filter is clogged 90%, accumulated operation time of the Lamp reaches 5000 hours,
or accumulated operation time of the Air Filter reaches 400 hours.
4.LAMP OFF: The LED will flash right after the Lamp goes off.
5.IC2301 is mounted on LCD Main C.B.A. which is included in the Projection Unit.
6.IC6001 is mounted on TV Main C.B.A.
Clogged air filter
more than 90%
15)
16)
17)
18)
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
11)
8)
9)
10)
12)
13)
14)
- flashes 5 times -
every 5 seconds
IC2301(pin82) detects the clogged air filter, then indicates the
error when the air filter is clogged 90%.
Front Fan stop or
Lamp Fan stop
flashes orange
once every
5 seconds
- -
IC2301(pin12) detects the Front FAN stop or Lamp
FAN stop, then indicates the error when the Front FAN
or Lamp FAN is stopped.
Lamp Cover open
Temperature Sensor
short or open
flashes orange
twice every
5 seconds
flashes orange
3 times every
5 seconds
flashes green for
140 seconds.
flashing red for
60 seconds.
light up red.
flashes once
every 5 seconds
flashes once
every 5 seconds
flashes red for
10 minutes
flashes once
every 5 seconds
-
-
-
-
Abnormal
Temperature
flashes twice
every 5 seconds
flashes twice
every 5 seconds
- -
Request for Lamp
Replacement - - lights up
Power Ballast Error
(abnormal
Lamp voltage)
- -
flashes 3 times
every 5 seconds
Power Ballast Error
(abnormal
temperature)
- -
flashes 4 times
every 5 seconds
Power Ballast Error
(other causes) - -
- -
Request for Filter
Cleaning -
Abnormal Voltage
on 16 V line of
LCD Main C.B.A.
-
flashes twice
every 5 seconds
flashes twice
every 5 seconds
Abnormal Voltage
on 14 V line of
LCD Main C.B.A.
-
flashes 3 times
every 5 seconds
flashes 3 times
every 5 seconds
Abnormal Voltage
on 7 V line of
LCD Main C.B.A.
-
flashes 4 times
every 5 seconds
flashes 4 times
every 5 seconds
IC2301(pin76) detects the Lamp Cover Unit condition
(open or close), then indicates the error when the
Lamp Cover Unit is open.
IC6001(pin85) detects the Duct FAN stop, then
indicates the error when the Duct FAN is stopped.
IC2301(pin74 and 75) detects open or short of the Temperature
Sensor (R2911) on Front Thermistor C.B.A., then indicates the
error when Temperature Sensor is open or shorted.
(The error is not detected for 1 minute after Lamp ON.)
IC2301(pin74 and 75) detects the temperature attached near
the Front FAN by the Temperature Sensor (R2911) on Front
Thermistor C.B.A., then indicates the error when the
temperature becomes more than 43 C (109 F).
(The error is not detected for 1 minute after Lamp ON.)
IC6001(pin86 and 87) detects open or short of the
Temperature Sensor (R2901) on Lamp Thermistor C.B.A.,
then indicates the error when Temperature Sensor is open or
shorted.
(The error is not detected for 4 minutes after Lamp ON.)
IC2301(pin74 and 75) detects the temperature attached near
the Lamp by the Temperature Sensor (R2901) on Lamp
Thermistor C.B.A., then indicates the error when the
temperature becomes more than 60 C (140 F).
(The error is not detected for 4 minutes after Lamp ON.)
IC2301(pin11) detects the error of LCD Power C.B.A.,
then indicates the error when the temperature fuse
(117 C)(243 F) in LCD Power C.B.A. is open.
IC2301(pin11) detects the error of LCD Power C.B.A. and Lamp,
then indicates the error when an inner malfunction of LCD Power
C.B.A. occurs, the Lamp voltage becomes more than 130V or
less than 30V, Lamp current becomes more than 5A, or the Lamp
is cracked.
IC2301(pin11) detects the error of the Lamp, then indicates the
error when the Lamp is short-circuit.
IC2301(pin48) detects +16V line voltage on LCD Main
C.B.A., then indicates the error when the voltage
becomes less than +13V.
IC2301(pin47) detects +14V line voltage on LCD Main
C.B.A., then indicates the error when the voltage
becomes less than +11V.
IC2301(pin45) detects +7V line voltage on LCD Main
C.B.A., then indicates the error when the voltage
becomes less than +5.7V.
IC2301(pin44) detects +3.3V line voltage on LCD Main
C.B.A., then indicates the error when the voltage
becomes less than +2.5V.
flashes 3 times
every 5 seconds
flashes 4 times
every 5 seconds
Abnormal Voltage
on 3.3 V line of
LCD Main C.B.A.
-
-
-
- flashes 5 times
every 5 seconds
Forced cooling
The failure of Lamp
light up
-
Temperature Sensor
short or open
-
-
Abnormal
Temperature
Duct Fan stop -
When accumulated operation time of the the Lamp reaches
5000 hours, OSD (replacing the Lamp) appears on the screen.
Note: The Lamp time is stored in EEPROM (IC2305).
When accumulated operation time of the Air Filter reaches 400
hours, OSD (cleaning the Air Filter) appears on the screen.
Note: The Filter time is stored in EEPROM (IC2305).
During forced cooling, this indication is indicated.
IC2301 (pin11) detects the failure of light up processing of
the Lamp, then the POWER LED is changed as follows.
1) POWER LED flashes green for 140 seconds (while turning on).
2) POWER LED flashes red for 60 seconds (while cooling).
3) POWER LED lights up red (standby).
Note: If the Lamp will not light after attempting turning on the
power 2 or 3 times, the Lamp, the LCD Power C.B.A. or the
LCD Main C.B.A. may be defective.
Error Symptom Problem Possible Solutio

the fan itself might be full of dust internally, means opening it and cleaning the internal fins to create airflow again. does sound like a heat issue though, most likely caused by poor internal airflow.

if you didn't want to take it apart to clean it, you could also try a can of compressed air (air shot), can be purchased from most high street shops like PC WORLD, Currys, Dixons, Circuit City, ect. and the cans of compressed air don't cost much.

If you do try compressed air, it comes out the can VERY cold so de let your PS3 cool down to room temp on its own before you use the air, otherwise you will cause rapid cooling and could crack the motherboard.

I do hope I have helped.

It sounds like the heater valve is not operating. Find the valve on the engine firewall passenger side and manually open the valve. Find it by following the 3/4 inch heater hose to the firewall where it is connected to the valve. Most likely the cable ( or vaccum hose)from the temperature dial to the valve needs replacing.

try turning the blower down, if you have the fan on full you will feel cooler air from time to time. as the thermostat only measures the ambient tempreture inside the car when this level is met then it will turn off the heat so it will only blow the air from the car which will feel cooler.
if the car is still cold suspect the tempreture control in the car maybe faulty or the water level in the system maybe low.

Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.

Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected