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How to open 1400 watt Russell Hobbs TurboPro Steam Iron?
Look behind the sole plate for two screws. There are always screws hidden somewhere, and often they are hidden behind decorative plastic covers that need prying off. Small appliances like this are generally considered disposable items when they fail. Good for you trying to keep items out of landfill.
1/23/2022 6:32:12 PM •
Irons
•
Answered
on Jan 23, 2022
How to dismantle a russell hobbs steamglide iron
To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081 steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear.
Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths.
My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.
Conair steamer green light comes on but low water
www.
conair.com/how-to-use-the-
conair-reg-deluxe-f...
Conair CorporationThe Conair® Deluxe Fabric Steamer (model # GS11DR) conveniently rolls to any spot in your ... This unit comes with a rotating hanger. ... The switch will light to indicate when power is on. ... Note: If the low water indicator lamp becomes illuminated but the water tank is not empty, follow the instructions for decalcification.
www.
conair.com/.../gs95_13pa140688_ib_final.pdf
Conair CorporationMar 1, 2013 - ... water only. 8. Plug the steamer unit into a standard 120V AC power outlet. 9. ... Push button on T-nozzle - light will go on and steam will start.
10/17/2021 12:06:40 AM •
Irons
•
Answered
on Oct 17, 2021
Iron not heating up...
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
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