Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

No, only F&P. This image will help identify the model number though. As time progresses, so does their procedures, systems and codes for identification.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
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Can anyone provide me with a manual for the FPG21KRDA ?
Just bought a second hand one. Thanks

The alarm tells you that something's wrong something's not cooling properly or something's wrong with the defrost system if you left your doors open for quite a while it will create ice around the fan blades and that could be your noise problem. d Disconnecting the power to your refrigerator opening the doors for about 12 hours and let it manually defrost will usually solve the problem. Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

If this is a large cabinet or larder fridge the cabinet is not rigid enough to maintain it's shape unless it rigidly stands level and square. It can take a deal of time and effort to adjust the front feet in order to level and square the cabinet on a relatively flat floor and sometimes it is impossible without first preparing the floor. It is important for them to stand level and square and at the same time stand firmly on all the feet. If they are allowed to operate out of plumb for any length of time the motor/compressor unit can soon become noisy. Often this is only noticed when the door is closed or open. The door is a major part of the rigidity of the modern fridge and if the fridge is not properly levelled the shape of the cabinet will change as the door is opened and closed causing any compressor noise to be transmitted differently. The gas charge of the modern fridge can also make weird noises as it is being pumped around the circuit. Ours sometimes sounds like the wind blowing across an open chimney and sometimes like the sea breaking on to a pebble beach and sometimes like something sprung a leak. All this is fairly normal after the fridge has lost it's youthfulness.

Haier took over f&P so try their spare department try clark rubber or allied rubber products take a grommet along as a spare

the compressor is mounted in 4 rubber grommets and held in place by a pin these rubber grommets break down and allow the compressor excess movement on starting and stopping it is just a suggestion to check the mounts for condition

sounds like the door opening switch must stick. find the switch, should be visible near the hinge area of the fridge and spray some wd-40 into the housing. that might work!

there could be oil blocking up the tube in the evaporator ry switching it off for a day to allow the oil to drain back to the compressor if that doesn't work get in a technician and get a quote to fix when the sign says --do not lay down on the side -- then you have just found out the reason why it is not done

first unfreeze your fridge until its melt. then check your bottom of your fridge

The error F26 does indicate a fault in the door switch circuit. See the image below for a complete listing of what can cause this error. There is a door unlock error that would display if the door is not locking or unlocking but the F26 means the control is not seeing the door switch open and close. This is most likely a problem with the door switch or a loose connection at the switch. The door switch is part of the door lock assembly part number 8183270 and is available from the following link: Sears PartsDirect . One thing to try first before scheduling service or replacing the part is to check the connections on the door switch. You can unplug the washer first and remove the lower access panel and reach up to the door lock and try to feel for the connections and make sure they're tight. The 2nd image below shows how to access the door switch by partially removing the door boot. I hope this information helps to resolve this problem for you but if you have any more questions then submit another question with additional details for further assistance with this problem.