Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Not enough details. What is the model number and how did you come up with error code 34. That code only applies to a very old model ( over 20 yrs old) While it is beeping do not press ant buttons and write down which lights are on along the top row. Count from the left and tell us which number lights are on and which are off.

Fisher and... | Answered on Nov 02, 2018


I own and have repaired my smart drive washer. The water pump is very simple to remove on these machines. Unplug the machine and drain as much water from it as possible. There's a small plastic locking tab on one side of the pump. Gently pry it away from the body of the pump and twist the housing until it comes free from the metal pump housing anchor plate. Unplug the pump from it's connection and remove it. Found a guide that should help you -

How to Drain Washing Machine That Won Empty Cares Appliances

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 12, 2018


Check drain pump for operation or obstructions

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


probably a faulty cold water solenoid

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 22, 2018


When was the last time it was serviced? Sounds like a faulty temperature sensor. Get it serviced, good clean out and sensor checked. Replace sensor if faulty.

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 15, 2018


Most common problem with these machines are the CPU and drain pump. I would change both

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 09, 2018


Hi blow down the hose that the waste water comes out of, it may be blocked

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 06, 2018


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 03, 2018


water valve on back where inlet of water replace blue

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 27, 2018


What model number? Never heard of a fault code 701. Where does the water come out from on to the floor? More info would help you get an answer.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 24, 2018


To change to recirculating mode then the diverter wax solenoid must be getting power fed to it and making it swap over. Sounds like a fault on the control board and board will need to be changed.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 24, 2018


No, it is an essential part required to run the motor. Why would you even think about that? Just replace it if it is faulty, it is not that expensive.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 10, 2018


The MW059 were made from 1999 to 2001. So yes it is getting very old.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jul 24, 2018


Switch off power & unplug from wall socket. Leave for a few minutes then restart. If it has not cleared the problem, call out an expert to diagnose. Could be either a display board fault or main control board fault.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jul 22, 2018

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