Frigidaire Refrigerators - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


An EF code is indicative of an Evaporator Fan Circuit Failure. Can it be stopped by ice or frost? Absolutely. Press the freezer up button and the freezer down button simultaneously for 6-8 seconds and you will enter a test mode. Every time you press the fresh food button after entering the test you will advance to the next test. They are not in numerical order. Go to test 26 (The defrost circuit test) and it will show CL for closed or OP for open. If it shows OP you have a defrost issue. If CL there is no defrost problem. Next go to test 15 - keeping in mind they ( the tests are Not in numerical order). When you get to 15 press the main power on/off button. The 1st time you press it the display will show LO and the fan should be on low speed. The next time you press the power button it will show HI, and the fan should be on high. It is a twelve vdc fan motor wire colors red, yellow, brown, and blue. They originate at the j6a and j4a connectors. If the fan does not come on in the test the check will be made at the control. There should always be 12vdc between brown and red, and there should be 9 - 12 vdc between brown and yellow in the test. The blue wire is a tach wire and feeds info back to the lower control which is located behind the kick plate underneath the unit. EX factory service 22 years currently an instructor. If you are not equipped with the proper tools and or knowledge please call a competent technician. KEEP IT SIMPLE

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 21, 2019


Would need the model number
Either screws in front or snap spring clips

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 20, 2019


Would need the model number
Usually 2 screws through the plastic grill in the front
Or a snap spring clips are holding it in.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 20, 2019


H1 means the refrigerator or freezer side is to warm
Are the controls set properly?
Is the rear wall of the freezer full of snow?
Is the outside edge of the refrigerator warm or hot to the touch?

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 20, 2019


Sounds like the defrost drain at the bottom of the freezer section is frozen over and clogged.
shut the refrigerator off, remove the food in the freezer
remove the shelves
remove the lower panel on the rear wall
at the bottom is the drain pan with a hole
my guess that it is full of ice?
use hot sink water and remove the ice
then use a turkey baster to clear the hole and the hose.
If the water still won't drain your going to have to manually clean the hose.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 20, 2019


Unfortunately, there is no good way I can think of to know without actually replacing the board. I recently replaced fans on a modern fridge (GE) only to be left with the control board being the only likely remaining suspect. Many on the internet posted that they had to replace the board to fix their problems. However, my brother was tired of trying to fix the fridge, and he got rid of it instead.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 15, 2019


No household units use ammonia as a coolant. IF it did and it leaked, you would know it immediately. If the unit still works, there is no issue with the Freon that is in it. The odor could be a sealant that was used to make the interior of unit. You did not say how old it is. Freon can have an odor to it but the unit would stop working correctly pretty fast.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 11, 2019


Did you disconnect and reconnect any of the electrical plugs? These are touchy and need to be tightly connected. Try some conductive lubricant on the connections, make sure they're as tight as possible. Wait 24 hrs then check for ice.
Hope this fixes it.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 10, 2019


Unfortunately, the SY EF error can mean a problem with the electronic control board or the fan. Check your wiring. It's possible that the wiring harness isn't fully seated (at the fan in the freezer or the electronic control board) or one of the wires in the harness is broken. If those are okay and the problem persists, then a new control board is needed.

I wish that I had better news for you.

Cindy Wells

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 07, 2019


Good Morning Friend,

I understand you are receiving an "SY EF" code on your Frigidaire refrigerator, model# FRS3R5EMB. The "SY EF" code stands for system error with the evaporator fan. This possibly means that there is something going on with your evaporator fan or it could possibly be a false error code. . I suggest resetting your appliance, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your home's circuit breaker, for 3-5 minutes. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully.

-Best Regards-
WP

Frigidaire... | Answered on May 27, 2019


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators How to Test your Defrost Timer



Frigidaire... | Answered on May 23, 2019


Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.

MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.

to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.

Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Some fridges are now using ADC boards.

Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC. They are normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such as icemaking and electrical air damper door opening and closing.The defrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.


AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. ( if in series with the windings)

If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.


TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer










Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1 Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement


Frigidaire... | Answered on May 23, 2019

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