GE Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Possibly too hot and is cooling the condenser.

March 2007 and the 17th produced that month. 03(month of)07 KR(range)(number)00017 (produced)

your not going o see a light use a dollar bill or paper to test close door on paper should be unable to remove the paper go around the door testing --door my be in need of adjustments or hinge worn down

I understand your frustration. It sounds like your GE washing machine is having some problems. Resetting the washer may help to fix the issue. Here are the steps on how to reset a GE washing machine WPDH8900J1WW: 1. Unplug the washer from the power outlet. 2. Wait for 2 minutes. 3. Plug the washer back in. 4. Turn on the washer. 5. Select a cycle and press the start button. If the washer still does not work, you can try resetting the drum motor. To do this, follow these steps: 1. Unplug the washer from the power outlet. 2. Wait for 1 minute. 3. Plug the washer back in. 4. Open and close the lid of the washer 6 times within 12 seconds. 5. Close the lid and press the start button. If the washer still does not work after resetting the drum motor, you may need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician. Here are some other things you can try before resetting the washer: * Make sure that the washer is properly leveled. * Check the water supply hoses for leaks. * Clean the lint trap. * Check the detergent dispenser for clogs. I hope this helps!

A Toaster Oven is far to BIG a draw in amps for that plug and will have almost certainly melted a fuse if it has one. I have an early 1970's GE and there is a fuse panel behind the burners and below the clock and dials. The outlet is to plug in whisks and stick blenders only, mine sparks and arcs if I put a kettle in it. https://www.google.com/search?q=ge+p7+stove+fuse+location ..

Please see the following link for the error codes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JglsX87UdeY&pp=ygUvSG93IHRvIGdldCBpbnRvIHNlcnZpY2UgbW9kZSBvbiBteSBHRSBHRldOMTYwMD8%3D

Cynthia, I've gone thru the manual here.... https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/42qc2frzjh-000432/ge-jgb900sel2ss-gas-range-parts And there doesn't appear that the "beeping" can be disabled. You may try contacting them..... MAJOR APPLIANCE QUESTIONS. GE Appliances Answer Center® 1-800-626-2005. Monday-Friday: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. ET. ... Best to you and Good Luck.

It's possible that the fan blades are hitting ice, frost, or debris, causing the noise. The fan might also be struggling to turn if there's any obstruction or if it's damaged

If you are referring to the ice maker or cold water dispenser, than check the fill solenoid.

Question edited for clarity and correct model nomenclature. The link says is it part of the motherboard features and not a standalone unit https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+GSL25JFPABS+location+of+defrost+timer ..

kindly cehck the water inket valve Sometimes, the valve might not open fully during a cycle, causing water flow issues or it may be clogged

If your GE washer's timer display turns on but the cycle doesn't start when you press the start button, there could be a few potential reasons for this issue. Here's a troubleshooting guide to help you diagnose and potentially fix the problem:

1. Check Power Supply: Make sure the washer is properly plugged into a working electrical outlet. If the outlet is functioning correctly, you should see the display light up.
2. Door/Lid Lock: Most modern washing machines have a safety mechanism that prevents the cycle from starting if the door or lid is not properly closed and locked. Ensure that the door or lid is closed securely and that the lock mechanism is engaging properly.
3. Pause/Cancel Button: Some washers have a "Pause" or "Cancel" button that might need to be pressed before starting a new cycle. Check if your washer has this feature and if it's engaged.
4. Child Lock: Certain models have a child lock feature that can prevent the washer from starting. Check your washer's manual to see if this is the case and learn how to disable it.
5. Error Codes: Look for any error codes or messages displayed on the screen. These codes can provide valuable information about what might be causing the issue.
6. Reset the Washer: Try resetting the washer by unplugging it from the power source for a few minutes, then plugging it back in. This can sometimes clear minor electronic glitches.
7. Water Supply: Ensure that the water supply to the washer is turned on and the water hoses are not kinked or blocked.
8. Drainage: If the washer believes there is still water in the tub from a previous cycle, it might not start a new one. Check if the drain hose is properly connected and not clogged.
9. Timer/Control Board: If none of the above solutions work, there might be an issue with the timer or control board. These are complex components that might require professional diagnosis and repair.
10. Professional Help: If you're unable to diagnose or fix the issue on your own, it's recommended to contact a professional appliance repair technician. They can accurately diagnose the problem and suggest the appropriate solution.

Remember, safety is important when dealing with appliances. If you're uncomfortable with troubleshooting or repairing the washer yourself, it's best to seek professional assistance.

Ck here.... https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/general-electric-microwave-pvm1790sr1ss-repair/pvm1790sr1ss-wont-start.html But before throwing parts at it give them a call #877#. I'm NOT affilated with them. Best to you.

Jason, Have looked over the net for parts but can't find any. Did find this replacement head.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/266329193858 Looking at the 3d and 4th picture, it appears that the valve is attached by the 4 screws. It's possible some sand or debris may be on the seal keeping it from closing fully. If you turn the water off and drain down the whole house by opening the lowest faucet and openimg a high faucet. Possibly you could then remove the valves 4 screws and clean it. If you have shut offs on both sides of the filter you can just shut those. There's just no blow up diagram of internal parts so it maybe a ball valve that has a nick in it and taking it apart won't help. Sorry I can't be of more help...but that's what I'd do if it was mine. Best to you.

If all the display lights on your GE dehumidifier ADHL35 are flashing, and the alarm is sounding, it indicates that the dehumidifier has detected a fault or an issue that needs attention. The specific problem could vary, but here are some common reasons for such an error:

1. Full Water Tank: The most common reason for alarms and flashing lights in dehumidifiers is a full water tank. Check the water collection bucket or reservoir to see if it is full. If it is, empty it and make sure it is correctly repositioned in the dehumidifier.
2. **Air Filter: **Some dehumidifiers have a filter that needs regular cleaning or replacement. A clogged or dirty filter can trigger an alarm and flashing lights. Check the user manual for instructions on how to clean or replace the filter.
3. Temperature and Humidity Levels: Extreme temperatures or high humidity levels can affect the dehumidifier's performance. Ensure the dehumidifier is operating within its specified temperature and humidity range.
4. Obstruction in Airflow: Make sure there are no obstructions blocking the air intake or discharge vents of the dehumidifier. Blocked airflow can affect its operation and trigger an alarm.
5. Internal Malfunction: If none of the above issues are the cause, there might be an internal malfunction in the dehumidifier's electronics or sensors. This could require professional diagnosis and repair.

Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Turn off the dehumidifier, unplug it from the power source, and wait for a few minutes before plugging it back in. This can help reset the electronics.
2. Check the water tank and empty it if it's full. Ensure it is correctly positioned and seated in the dehumidifier.
3. Clean or replace the air filter if necessary.
4. Ensure there are no obstructions blocking the air vents.

If the problem persists after attempting these troubleshooting steps, it's best to contact GE customer support or a qualified appliance repair technician. They will have the expertise to diagnose and fix the issue properly. Avoid using the dehumidifier if it continues to display an error or alarm, as using it in a faulty state may cause further damage or pose safety risks.

I, too, have the GE -JKP86. Microwave over oven. My oven would not heat up on bake or broil. Elements checked good, no fault codes. This is how I fixed mine: Shut off power at the box. Remove unit from cabinet. I placed mine on a chair. Remove cover(s) until you expose the circuit boards behind the control consol . The top board is behind the microwave controls, the bottom is behind the oven controls. Remove the bottom board by removing 4 screws. I take pictures with my smart phone, even some video. Helps me remember how everything goes back together. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, HIGH VOLTAGE IN HERE! One of the screws is hard to see. It is behind the ribbon connector. Unplug everything carefully. You will see a red and an orange wire north and south of a small relay. You must unclip the circuit boards from each other. Look for a missing drop of solder on the back side of the board with the relay. You will find it underneath where the red wire connects. Mine ( looking through a magnifying glass) looked like a crater with a wire sticking up out of it. It had overheated and the solder dripped out. The joint is inadequate. I cleaned and resoldered it with a nice blob. Reassemble and check. I just left mine on the chair. Power on. Select bake, 300, start. You should here the relays click and after about 45 seconds you'll see the bottom element glow. After one minute the relay clicks again ant you'll see the top element glow. They alternate during the preheat cycle. Put it all back together and shove it all back in the hole. Hope this helped!

There is a stuck micro switch somewhere. The is one behind each burner knob. https://www.geappliances.com/appliance/GE-Profile-30-Free-Standing-Gas-Convection-Range-PGB911ZEJSS Oh no, Part 12, is discontinued and all the switches come as one harness. You may be able to clean and test them if you can get to them. If not, there is a replacement. Item has been replaced by WB18X27596 https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/ModelSectionParts/PGB911SEJ1SS/1/0/0/0/GAS_&_BURNER_PARTS ..

yes it does