Hunter Dryers - Page 7 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Yeah I would advise you to get an electrician to to come over and change the wiring portion because the current one might be broken.

All due respect, but if your ceiling fan is 30 years old, replace it - soon. If you choose not to do that, Having installed at least 15 of them over the years, I can with certainty tell you that the hookup is exactly the same. It's a little more involved if you have a unit in which the lights can be turned on and off without engaging the fan - or vice versa. That may be why you have "wires hanging out of it".

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Amazon com HelpHey Patricia, Yes, you will get a globe, BUT - NO ONE on here can get it for you,,, FixYa is not a site that can "get parts" for you. YOU must call Hunter, or the store where you purchased (Amazon has that info) and resolve the missing part issue through them.. FIxya is simply a site that only provides information to assist you in accomplishing your goals!

I would guess black is hot, and red is hot--one to fan, one to light? Green is ground. Grey is neutral. Test everything with a circuit tester.

open the battery compartment it the tiny little switches

Look in the fan's receiver. Make the dip switch positions the same in the remote as it is in the receiver.

You will need to contact a retailer of ceiling fans and ask them.

I have the same fans...love 'em.. this should be a plug up type connection...? ... If you have to "twist wires"...stop and.call your electrician friend to help..there is obviously something different about the one... .... sometimes the remotes do funny things...make sure you have the fan and remote settings matching... ... on mine, when the power blips off and on.. they fans either go to high speed or quit.. and all the light cut on high.. http://www.hunterfan.com/support http://www.hunterfan.com/Support/Technical-Support/Parts-Manuals

Use an 8 inch Circline T9 daylight LED and directly relamp fluorescent FC8T9 bulb without rewiring

You can get another chain with a hook at the end if there is any of the chain at all left on the fan to fix it.

Normally the common wire is black, but installers can use anything, so you need to make sure that blue came off a "B" labeled screw. The common would normally be labeled "C". You need a simple multi-meter to check, although I have to believe that the instructions with the new thermo would have to cover the hookup and should show some extra connections if truly universal, as it would have to accommodate heat pumps and dual stage systems. With the old thermo mounted on the wall as it was originally with no wires connected, check for continuity between R and each of the other screws. Set thermo for cooling and turn temp down to 60 and see if you get continuity R to Y, set fan to on and see if you get continuity R to G, set thermo to heat and see if you get continuity R to W. If you just have a single wire that runs to the contactor in your condensing unit, and one wire for the heat, then the red is power from the transformer in the furnace, green is for the fan on all the time during cooling, yellow for the AC contactor, and white to bring on the heating cycle, IF ALL are single stage (only one setting for heat, cool, or fan that is either on/off). Check for continuity between R and B on each possible setting. If you get no continuity or greater resistance than on the other screws (when checking R to B), set meter to VAC and see if you get 24 volts between red and blue wires - the wires coming out of the wall and not the thermo screws. If so then you have a simple single stage for both heat and cool system. If you tape off the blue wire so that it can't contact anything in the new thermo then hook up the other wires as you state and see if everything works as it should. The blue wire in that case is a common that is not needed in your new thermo as it has its own internal battery power and does not need the common to power it from the transformer. Some systems actually use 2 transformers and the common does not run to the thermo as the other leg of each circuit is terminated elsewhere, but another wire does. If so, you will not get the readings above and you may need to do some rewiring - this is very unlikely.

Sorry we do not have any resources to find you parts.

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Does it use any kind of battery? This can be an indication they are going flat.

You need two other remotes. There should be "dip switches" inside each remote behind the batteries, that correspond with dip switches inside the fans themselves. Match them and each will work independently.

Sorry, but I would recommend you get an electrician in to sort it out. Playing with electricity is dangerous.

It probably is the capacitor but no guarantees as the insulation of the motor windings could have broken down or there might be another fault. Proper checking with an insulation tester is advisable. If the capacitor is merely a start capacitor and not a start/run capacitor the motor should perhaps hum a little when switched on and then run normally if the fan blades are given a vigorous turn by hand. There are several ways of arranging the motor circuit and some knowledge of these would be useful. You could have the capacitor tested by a local motor expert. Capacitors bought as spare parts from appliance manufacturers tend to be very expensive. Capacitors are usually bought in by such manufacturers and replacements can be sourced much cheaper direct if the type and values and the maker's detail are present on the capacitor case, otherwise you will need the services of a motor specialist to determine the values for you if the information isn't available elsewhere.

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Do you have a separate wall switch controlling the lights that may be turned off and possibly not realize it? If all lights just stoped working and you are sure that their is no switch turned off controlling the lights, then you likely have a bad fan controller inside the fan housing, or a wire has come loose. If you are electrically handy, open the fan housing and check to see if you have power to the fan light wire. All of the lights going out at once sounds like a wire possibly a neutral (white) wire may have a bad connection.