Maytag Neptune - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 3

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

you have to tear the whole thing apart. when the last screw comes out make sure you have some extra hands to help.

To find out what the code means,

contact Maytag ServicesSM, Maytag Customer Assistance: U.S.A. 1-800-688-9900 or

Canada 1-800-688-2002.

could be the heater element, check for circuit with a test meter if it does not heat up in the minute it runs this is almost certainly your problem

The 'glow thing' is called a Thermocouple and is a safety device that makes sure that there is a flame before the main gas valve to the burners opens up. Because it is a gas appliance and the very REAL danger of explosion, all gas appliance must be worked on by a gas certified technician. It is not a big job and they normally carry thermocouples in the van. ..

I had this problem as well. I pulled the lint filter out and vacuumed everything and it still wouldn't go down. I made sure to clean all the 'tracks' around the edge of the filter, in case that was causing the problem. No luck. I stuck my fingers in and even pulled the interior cover off to get at whatever was holding it up and still NOTHING. But then I found the problem! The handle where you reach in and pull the filter out has to go in behind the interior vent cover. You have to stick your head in the dryer to see that it's catching. One side of my 'handle' wasn't going behind but resting on top. I pulled out the filter and then I gently pushed on the plastic interior filter cover for a few seconds and then tried the filter again. I did it several times before I got the cover pushed enough so the handle was nesting behind the cover properly. My theory is that when the lint accumulates it lifts the filter up. And when the filter doesn't get nested all the way, the plastic cover softens enough in the heat that it bends slightly in. After a while, it bends in enough to keep the filter sitting slightly above where it ought to be and you can't get it down in there. I am going to keep my filter space cleaned out regularly to make sure the filter always sits down in there properly. But regardless, I figured it out so I can fix it again if I have to.

THE BUZZER WON'T SHUT OFF ON MY MAYTAG ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running. 1 answer · Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ... ..

bad start up capacitor for motor

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc Category. F01 is a very straight forward error and it means that your dryer has detected a short in the main relay power control board mounted to the left side wall under the top panel of the dryer. Oct 19, 2018

Our Maytag 5000 series dryer is showing an F01 error code.

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair

F01 - Error Code - Dryer

Maytag https://producthelp.maytag.com > ... > Starts with F Dec 14, 2019 - Possible Solutions. Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute. Power unit up by turning on the circuit . ..

most likely has hot surface ignitor, does not have free standing pilot.

what is the model number? free standing pilots have been gone for several years. Google your model number and include parts. This will give you sites that sell parts. You most likely have and hot surface ignitor.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=the+electrical+capacity+of+Maytag+MDG9700BWW%3F Then check related searches MOTOR: 1/4HP,120 volt,60 Hz,single-phase,thermally protected against overload,auto-reset. EXHAUST:Use a minimum of 4"(10.2 cm) diameter rigid aluminum or galvanized steel duct. Never use plastic,nonmetal or combustible duct. HEAT SOURCE/ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS: Electric model- 5,300 watt nichrome helix coil; 240 volt,AC,60 Hz; 30 amp fuse. Gas model-Single port burner with automatic electric ignition; 22,000 BTU/hr. 15 amp fuse. Self-adjusting valve automatically compensates for variation in gas pressure. WEIGHTS (Crated/Uncrated):

The F70 indicates a communication error code between the main control on the top left and the user interface on the front. Unplug the machine and remove the top. Check the connection on the board in the white plastic housing on the top left. Next check the connections on the board on the front.

Contact maytag repair dept! Hope this helps should be a contact number on the back!

Question edited for clarity. The wiring is here https://www.partselect.com/Models/PDET910AYW/Sections/WIRING-INFORMATION/?ModelID=177232&ModelNum=PDET910AYW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=59105&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=6 https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+performa+pdet910ayw+wiring+diagram .. The video, may be of help

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

Possibly... https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/WP303395/481329 Ck here too... https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/8-4-563894-/New/Maytag-Dryer-Not-Heating-MDG7600AWW Give them a call at their 800# before throwing parts at it. Best to you

Locks wear out because they get so much use and are solenoid controlled. Just replace it.

The rubber boot takes up that space unless the suspension/bearing is damaged, in which case, I would have it serviced.