Maytag Dryers - Page 11 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Getting a fault code F70 on our 3000 series dryer?
F70 = Overheating sensed causing dryer stop until temperature reaches(drops) below set level - determined by manufacturer
Can be caused by different contributing factors;
1. poor airflow
2. blocked air flow screen inside tumbler
3. clogged lint screen
4. slow tumbler (low revolutions)
NOTE;
Ironically, the fourth factor has been lurking behind the popular
discussions on this problem that has exhibited itself on both the
whirlpool and kenmore products with the main triage to have included
inspection of the electrical connections made by the installer.
These electrical connections not followed properly with
accordance to '4prong' NEMA 14-30R (30amp, 2-phase circuit outlet) with
separate ground and neutral posts, as exhibited in the standard dryer
installation manual, will cause your tumbler to run slow. Hence, the
4th factor which caused the 'F70' code stops the dryer from operating.
Now, you have corrected the wiring as necessary and eagerly
place some stuff's in there and all seems well. But as soon as you
place something large and wet (HEAVY/BUNDLE), you get the error code
again, Geeeezzzzz, you thought you had it!
Okay, this is what you need to do;
1. make sure your air flow is adequate by really cleaning the
duct (I stuck my hand through the wall duct and scraped off old hard
lint that can collect humidity & even cut my finger). Also make
sure your vent hose does not have any unnecessary elbows or squiggles
in it ( I had an elbow/pan type and it is not good as the heat seems to
reflect too much ). KEEP IT AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE - I KNOW IT'S HARD,
BUT IT IS NECESSARY.
2. Refrain from using too many softener sheets as they can & will restrict the air flow screen inside the tumbler.
3. Make sure your lint screen is clean - wash it periodically as
lint particles collect moisture and this in turn raised humidity.
4. Once you have verified your electrical connections as stated
earlier in this posting, run a normal cycle with towels or something of
the like so as to reset the sensors in the dryer.
What my wife keeps doing is to put a back in after it's Heavy
Buncle cycle (because it's not fluffy) and the dryer start up with high
heat and then senses over heat and then SHE GET'S THE FAMOUS F70. In
cases like this, use the damp dry selection and that works great - or
better yet just use the timed dry selection with low heat.
We just have to understand that someone sat down and figured
out what and how they wanted to program the computer that determines
how this particular machine is going to react.
THE MAIN THING TO REMEMBER IS THAT 'F70' SEEMS TO BE THERE TO
PROTECT AGAINST OVERHEATING WHICH IN TURN CAN TURN TO A FIRE HAZARD!
Removing Timer Knob on Maytag MDE7400AYW dryer
Can anyone help me? I have a Maytag Atlantis that my parents just gave me and my wife. Unfortunately, they accidently removed the model number sticker in the door area. I need to buy a new timer but no one can find which timer to get without the model number. Via the internet, I think I narrowed it down to either the MDE7400AYQ or the MDE7400AYW....but they both look identical to me. Can anyone tell me what the difference between the two is so I can go get the part?
Maytag dryer would not run until it cooled down. does not run at all now
Sounds a lot like mine did right before it burned to the point that I had to replace the motor. The rollers on the drum were locked up and had to be cleaned. The resistance was so much that it just finally burned the motor. I was able to get a relatively cheap motor, cleaned the rollers and I'm back up and running. You might have time to save it if you clean you rollers and tension wheel. You have to be a little handy to do it but completely doable for the average person with mechanical ability and hand tools.
My maytag dryer model # LDE412 is making a bad schreching noise in the drum as it turns. would like to fix it if possible love my maytags build in Newton Iowa
The Screeching noise that you hear is probably the belt slipping on the drum. I would suspect like my dryer that your drum wheels and tensioner wheel are locked up or stiff. If you don't clean and service them you might burn out your motor like mine did. Tearing apart a dryer isn't a big deal once you know how and you're a little handy. There are usually two rollers on the backside of the drum and a tensioner wheel that keeps the belt tight. You'll probably need a split ring wrench, some lube, a vacuum cleaner, tools to take apart the cabinet (Phillips head screwdriver and small socket set). Once you do decide to do it yourself, give yourself at least an hour or more to do it. (You can get this down to 1/2 hour once you know what you are doing.) All of the hair, lint and dust is what you will want to get to especially on the rollers. I did not buy new rollers, but they are available online for relatively cheap price. Good luck.
Just bought a Maytag 3000 washer and dryer and
Most likely the metal is aluminum or stainless and you should worry about rust unless you wash your clothes with salt-water (seawater. not gonna happen.)
If you're really concerned, I'd attempt to reach a maytag customer service person.
800-462-9824
To reach a real person press 0 at every option. Should take three times.
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