Maytag Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

The problems of buying 'Universal'. Some need the correct OEM part because of the mountings. Google Maytag (model number) parts Those simple three words will find you suppliers and within their model page search 'water inlet valve'. ..

Here's some sites with repair parts and videos on replacement.. https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/1121762?symptoms=61 https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-maytag-mfx2570aeb0.html I'd suggest you call their tech 800#s before throwing parts at it. I'm NOT affilated with them. Just use them for parts and repair information. And found them too be helpful. Best to you.

Matthew...you sure you have the Model# right? Cuz Google comes up with Zip..Zilch with that #.? :)

i kindly recommend you clean the interior thoroughly with a mixture of warm water and baking soda.

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Never ever use the self cleaning feature. It is there to make your life a little easier, but it also damages elements, door locks and control boards. The heat is just too aggressive. We see it here VERY often. It is a great way for the appliance makers to earn income in spares. Use the traditional method, spray walls, base and racks in the oven with Easy Off - No Odor Foam, and put a large roasting pan of boiling water in the middle shelf (this prevents the spray drying off). Leave overnight, and wash off in the morning.

Self-Cleaning Oven: 6 Reasons to Stop Using Feature ...

FIX Appliances CA https://fixappliances.ca > 4-reasons-stop-using-self-cle... A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters at an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to ... ‎How Self-Cleaning Ovens Work · ‎Major Parts Damage ..

Question edited for clarity. The wiring is here https://www.partselect.com/Models/PDET910AYW/Sections/WIRING-INFORMATION/?ModelID=177232&ModelNum=PDET910AYW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=59105&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=6 https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+performa+pdet910ayw+wiring+diagram .. The video, may be of help

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

This is caused from a power cut or by the door being opened during a mid cycle.Or from a power cut.

In the Maytag MHWZ400TQ01 washer model, the wire harnesses refer to the various electrical connectors and wiring throughout the machine. They connect the different components, such as the control board, motor, sensors, and other electrical parts. To locate the wire harnesses and check them for any issues, you'll typically need to access the inner components of the washer. Here are some steps to follow:

1. Unplug the washer: Ensure the washer is disconnected from the power supply for safety.
2. Remove the top panel: Look for screws at the back of the washer holding the top panel in place. Remove these screws and slide the top panel backward or lift it up, depending on the model, to access the internal components.
3. Locate the wire harnesses: Once the top panel is removed, you should see various wire harnesses connected to different components. They are typically bundles of wires with connectors at the ends. These connectors plug into corresponding receptacles on the components.
4. Inspect the wire harnesses: Check each wire harness for any signs of damage, such as loose connections, frayed wires, or connectors not properly seated. Ensure all connections are secure and properly plugged in.
5. Repair or replace as needed: If you find any damaged wire harnesses, you may need to repair or replace them. Repairing involves fixing loose connections or re-crimping connectors. If a wire harness is severely damaged, it's best to replace it with a new one.

As for obtaining a diagram or parts list specific to your washer model, it's recommended to visit the Maytag website or contact their customer support. They can provide you with the necessary documentation or direct you to resources that can help you identify and locate the parts in your washer. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components and ensure the washer is completely disconnected from the power supply before performing any inspections or repairs. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with these procedures, it's best to consult a qualified technician for assistance.

Yes and it is $482! Never replace control boards on a guess, call for a professional to correctly diagnose. https://www.maytagreplacementparts.com/Shop-For-Parts/a17b4c13d508740/Model-MLE2000AYW-Maytag-Washer-Dryer-Combo-Circuit-Board-Timer-Parts ..

Do you have children or a husband that leaves things in pockets? Something may be between the inner and outer drum. If you get a flashlight and put it on the holes in the inner drum, it will illuminate between the two. You can also try spinning the drum by hand, listen and feel.

If the keypad on your Maytag Gemini oven (numbers only) has stopped working, there are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Power cycle the oven: Turn off the oven by unplugging it from the power source or by switching off the circuit breaker. Leave it powered off for a few minutes, and then plug it back in or switch the circuit breaker back on. This can sometimes reset the keypad and resolve temporary issues.
2. Check for physical damage: Inspect the keypad for any physical damage, such as cracks or signs of wear. If you notice any damage, it may be causing the keypad malfunction. In such cases, the keypad might need to be replaced.
3. Clean the keypad: Over time, dirt, grease, or food particles can accumulate on the keypad, which can interfere with its functioning. Use a soft, damp cloth to gently clean the keypad. Avoid using harsh chemicals or excessive moisture that could damage the keypad.
4. Test the oven's other functions: Check if other functions of the oven are working properly, such as the temperature controls and other buttons. If only the numeric keypad is affected, it could indicate a specific issue with that part of the keypad or the underlying circuitry.
5. Contact Maytag customer support: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it is advisable to contact Maytag customer support or schedule a service appointment with a qualified technician. They will be able to provide further guidance and assistance in diagnosing and fixing the problem.

The Maytag Model MSD2651KES is a side-by-side refrigerator. It does not have a traditional drip pan underneath like some other refrigerator models. Instead, it uses a drain system to collect and channel condensation and defrost water. The condensation and defrost water from the freezer section of the refrigerator typically flow down through a drain hole and into a drain pan or trough located at the bottom of the refrigerator. This drain pan is usually not accessible from the outside and does not require regular maintenance or emptying. If you are experiencing any issues with water leakage or pooling around your Maytag refrigerator, it is recommended to check the drain system for any blockages or clogs. Ensure that the drain hole is clear and that the water can flow freely through the system. If you suspect a problem with the drain system, it is advisable to consult the refrigerator's user manual or contact Maytag customer support for specific guidance on troubleshooting and resolving the issue.

Possibly... https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/WP303395/481329 Ck here too... https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/8-4-563894-/New/Maytag-Dryer-Not-Heating-MDG7600AWW Give them a call at their 800# before throwing parts at it. Best to you

Try unplugging for a minute. If this don't work it may need a board.

If you've converted your Maytag oven to LP (propane) and you're experiencing issues with the oven and broiler not receiving propane and not producing a flame, there could be a few possible causes:

1. Gas supply: Ensure that the propane supply to the oven is turned on and the gas valve is fully open. Check that the propane tank is properly connected and that there is sufficient propane in the tank. If the tank is low or empty, it may need to be refilled.
2. Incorrect conversion: Double-check that the conversion from natural gas to LP was done correctly. Verify that the conversion orifices have been installed in the correct locations and that the air adjustment shutters or plates have been adjusted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Improper conversion can result in inadequate gas flow and a lack of flame.
3. Clogged orifices: It's possible that the orifices, which control the flow of gas, have become clogged with debris or residue during the conversion process. Clean the orifices using a small brush or a compressed air canister specifically designed for cleaning gas orifices.
4. Gas pressure: LP gas operates at a higher pressure than natural gas. Ensure that the pressure regulator on the oven has been adjusted or replaced to accommodate LP gas. If the regulator is not properly set for LP gas, it may not deliver the correct pressure for proper combustion.
5. Faulty ignition system: If the oven and broiler are glowing but not producing a flame, there may be an issue with the ignition system. Check the igniter for any signs of damage or wear. A faulty igniter may not generate enough heat to ignite the propane. Consider replacing the igniter if necessary.

If you've checked these potential issues and the problem persists, it may be best to contact a qualified appliance technician or the manufacturer's customer support for further assistance. They can provide specific troubleshooting steps or arrange for a service visit to diagnose and resolve the issue with your Maytag oven.

Does it fill with water to the correct level? The water pressure switch lets the machine fill to a certain level and the stops the water coming in, then the control board should start the agitation. The first video might help you. https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+Centennial.+It+starts+to+agitate+while+the+water+fills+in+the+beginning+of+the+cycle ..

Either the compressor is broken or is now compromised.The compressor needs to now be replaced for your fridge.