Milwaukee Tool Saws - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Possible causes:- Tires: If the tire(s) on the front or rear pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off.- Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into.- Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.

Sounds like your switch. I have the same model with the same symptoms and the switch has now been replaced 3 times in a year and a half.

High Speed Steel - Used for wood and light metal cutting Bi-Metal - Also used for wood and light metal cutting. Cobalt Steel - Tougher and lasts longer than Speed steel and Bi-Metal. Used for wood and metal. Carbide Grit - Strictly used to cut masonry board. Scrolling - Thinner than the regular jig saw blades and are used for tight turning cuts.

you should change those out.

the bearing is on a cam bolt to adjust for various width blade thickness there should be a lock nut to lock in position once the bearing is in the correct position

could be a couple things, unplug tool and look at the pins on both the cord and the pin housing to make sure none pushed back, next remove handle half and remote electronic and look for a loose flag terminal at the brush holder, look for loose wires on the switch, (give a gentle tug) and remove the brushes and look for unusual wear patterns and possibly a burnt brush spring. Let me know if you need more help.

Hi Dean,

I'm not aware of a shear pin, but it makes sense that there would be one. It's not something you look for unless, well, it shears.

It would also make sense that it would be located on the drive train.

I'd take off the guard and blade, then inspect the drive wheel mount to the motor. Remember, if it turns out to be a shear pin, you're also looking for the reason it sheared.

Make sure the other wheel spins freely. Nothing is binding. that sort of thing.

Best regards
Mike

Motor is not running because mechanism is jammed. Remove the obstruction to restore operation.

I'm afraid this is one that needs to go to the manufacture. You can contact them at this link:
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/

Your drive has become detached or loose, you need to disassemble and find out whats broken and replace.

Scott, What is the serial number on your saw? I need that to make sure I get the correct info for you.

The connectors to the motor. One might be breaking of or broke off. I just fixed mine with Q-bond. Could not solder the conector it has plastic all around it and I'm not that good at it. Q-bond has a powder that when you put the glue on the power it becomes a polymer.

Hi Don. have you tried over tightening the blade tension? that works for me

No. Check the power cord and see if it has full voltage through it. If so pull the motor brushes (black caps top and bottom of tool) and see if they are ok. If the brush spring is collapsed you'll need to replace it.....if the motor is good!. If the brushes look good the next step is the switch. You can test it with a multi-meter. If not that then maybe the module or maybe the brush holders. If none of that motor trouble. It sounds like a lot to check but it's not difficult. Good Luck!

Take the clamp apart by removing the spiral ring that holds the collar on and then remove the pin. Make sure you write down how to put it back together! Once you remove the pin everything else will come off easily! diagram the whole thing as you go!

UNPLUG THE SAW first!! Look for the blade lock on the top or front of the motor body, Hold the lock button down while turning the blade nut with a wrench. After a bit you'll feel the lock button engage and hold the blade firm. Rotate the the wrench counter clockwise and remove the nut, Slide the blade out from under the guard and replace with a new one. Reinstall the nut following the above procedure.

If you're not familiar with allen screws, I'd stay out of the insides.