Oldsmobile Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Your fuel pump is located inside of the fuel tank. You will need to drop the tank and remove the lock ring that holds the sending unit into the tank. I don't have a video, but Google might be able to find you something.

The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. From the front of the car odd numbers on the drivers side of the engine and even numbers on the passengers. The distributor turns clockwise and #1 is at the 5 o'clock position. Hope this helps.

If you drive it in overdrive does it hold 1st for a real long time?

with all your requests if your doing this for a living or a shade tree mechanic invest in repair manuals --use computer for searchs video-flow charts] or with alldata https://www.alldata.com/en

1. Locate the relay panel: The relay panel is usually located near the battery and is often marked with a diagram of the various relays.
2. Identify the starter relay: The starter relay is typically marked with an "S" or "ST" on the panel or cover.
3. Check the wiring diagram: If you're having trouble locating the starter relay, refer to the vehicle's wiring diagram for help.

If you're still unable to locate the starter relay, it's recommended to consult a repair manual

Have you checked the PCL in the car? Like the computer of the car? You might need to tow it to an autozone or somewhere similar and have it checked.

You should work with Larry on your other post by replying to him. He normally has access to diagrams via a subscription site. The more information you give Larry, the better he is. https://www.fixya.com/cars/t29914266-looking_vacuum_diagram_1985_toronado ..

buy the book. there is no one diagram ever. it is by chapters on all things doing vacuum,. that hood map was smog parts only. also this varies by USA FED, USA CALIF or exported model Olds. no VIN TOLD so there is no real answer. the books for USA are here used https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=1985+toronado+oldsmobile++service+manual&_sacat=0

no VIN told no engine told no transmission told (matches engine) so there is no answer. really. so I toss dice 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass cruiser wagon. USA spec car? or not>? export. USA cruiser has 3 engines 2.5L (L4) 2.8L V6 3.3L v6 i will roll dice and pick 3.3 V6,sorry not doing all 3 . it uses 4T60ACM box, GM made. box. common too. T= transverse box, FWD. 4speed, load rated 60 (weak) this box shifts by mech tail end GOVERNOR and by vac modulator and TV dentent cable. both, 3 device set shift points on this hydramaic. I guess you think this box is electronic shifted via TCM that it> ? it does have a TCC lockup solenoid only ECU runs that, no TCM there. to fix any car, learn 2 things, what engine is there and the real name of the transmission, the GM car as an RPO tag, and tells both. in xyz codes for sure. GM this is a great feature. then post symptoms all, good and bad. R and Low ok but drive will not upshift from 1 >2 or shifts and flares. or what./? aka 700R4 see the book on the box, super good book https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=4L60%2F700-R4+%28700R4%29+ATSG+Rebuild+Manual&_sacat=0

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/oldsmobile,2003,bravada,4.2l+l6,1417485,ignition,spark+plug,7212

What size is the fuel pump stud bolt

no model car told. just and engine floating in space. why"? 8 models there are... we can not see damaged parts no photo of it posted. 1986 car>? not told but I see 1 post going to 1986 by you. 1 clue only. stock pump here as vast cars this old have modification and hacks.again we cant see it. i have never seen a 1 stud pump ever. the engine block>? 5.0L cutless supreme.? 307 has stinky CARB for fuel and matching mech pump. the pump has 2 bolts or studs if you remove the pump the 2 holes or studs are clearly there so measure the not broken one. that is the size for both (inches ) 5/16" ! or 3/8" SAE bolts. take the good one to car parts store. lay it on the counter and ask for a match. or run nut Known sizes 5/16? and if fits bingo. the measure length of good stud. 2"? end story. if the old one is seized to the block that means we do ,the 10 page answer.? or learn to youtube remove broken stud from a block. all of this is basic mechanics stuff, super super basics. if the stud is stuck I heat it up smoking hot and twist it out with vise-grips.(gloves on leather) next time post photos of damage.? nobody can guess what pickle you are in, blind. sorry . now some examples . the stud if sheared off clean at cast iron tread boring those must be easy out removed ezout. google that see 10000000 hits. what I do is file bad stud end flat . (a tool) then center punch it.(a tool) and drill it out 1/6" cobalt drilled. dead center then go larger drill to ezout best fit. beyond this is a 10 page cure. even drilling it out to root thread size 5/16 (root not this) and digging out the old treads. (spiral metal ) tedious. if stud is still high, (center of it present) there is a tool called EZ-stud extracter. note not sheared clean off 100% and flush see now photos work? i heat it up red hot on some. (exh. man) just heating it up red hot and let cool fully it breaks the internal rust bond and now comes out 10x more easy. or as it cools down spray PEN oil on it. now wd40 ,real PEN oil. as it cools it creates a thermal vacuum and sucks in the PEN oil. even repeating this me 5 times I have one this battle. many times on one super rare manifold I took it to a special shop the EDM milled it out. 1 atom at time. came back like new. but was small manifold no a block off CJ5, rare parts. HERE IS EDM DEMO FOR USE ON RARE ENGINES. OR SMALL MANFOLDS ETC https://youtu.be/pty-QKRzmeg MORE https://youtu.be/m2gm1YDuJU4 IF THERE IS WILL THERE IS A WAY ! IF REMOVING ANY STUD AND THEN YOU THEN END UP EZ-OUT BUSTED, EDM IS THE CURE OR EVEN START WITH EDM FIRST. https://youtu.be/tQKxivbsFFE?t=211 END IDEAS , BLIND, OP POSTS NO PHOTOS.

check fuses. scan the PCM yet? 1998 4wd is computer controlled NP-136 transfer case, which works more like traction control. The Bravada was now run in RWD in normal operations, and only when wheel slip was detected did the SmartTrak engage AWD The NP136 transfer cases was manufactured with electrical shift encoder motors, this unit has two different drive ranges 2 high and 4WD (run at reduced speeds) with the front output drop on the driver side. This unit has a 27 spline front output and utilizes a rear slip yoke. if you have purchased your car used the very first order of business is to double check the tire diameters. Used car dealers may have mismatched size the tires to make the sale. Mismatched tires will cause the NP136 transfer case to fail.The NP136 transfer case unit has a couple of problems, it utilizes a viscous coupler clutch system that can fail. One way to recognize this failure mode is clicking sounds when turning on dry asphalt or concrete surfaces. Viscous coupler failure is attributed to excessive heat build up. The second problem is that the oil circulation pump on NP136 can wear a hole in the case, we provide a transfer case saver to prevent this from happening. Once you have a hole in the case fluid will be lost and the case will fail. Don't leave home without our case saver, it's only a matter of time. Recommended fluid for the NP 136 transfer case is GM part number 12378396. and more get the car serviced, or learn to scan first. and post DTC seen

Decompress tensioner, slide belt off of idler pulley, Using schematic under hood reinstall belt, again decompress tensioner and slide belt over it

There are very few things that make the H/O cutlass any different from the other "G" body GM vehicles. I believe all Chilton and Mitchell manuals for a early 80's G body will have wiring diagrams in them.

i hope this helps https://www.justanswer.com/

No way to do this, the alternator is not made/engineered to use an off alternator external voltage regulator. Why would you need to do this?

It sounds like you are having a problem with your 1992 Oldsmobile 88. The issue you described, where the car is not accelerating and stalling out, could be caused by a number of things. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the fuel system. A faulty fuel pump or clogged fuel filter could cause the engine to stall out. Check the fuel pump and fuel filter and replace them if necessary.
2. Check the ignition system. A faulty spark plug or ignition coil could cause the engine to misfire and stall out. Check the spark plugs and ignition coils and replace them if necessary.
3. Check the fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure can cause the engine to stall out. Check the fuel pressure and make sure it is within the manufacturer's specifications.
4. Check the engine temperature. If the engine is overheating, it could cause the engine to stall out. Check the engine temperature and make sure it is within the normal range.

I recommend having a mechanic diagnose the problem in order to determine the cause and recommend the appropriate repair. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

'2002 ols seilette' That's the worst spelling of the model I have seen for a long time, it's written on the back of the vehicle. I fixed all the others as well and moved it from the Miscellaneous category to make model category. You need an auto electrician with a $5,000 pro grade scan tool computer to record what happens when you try to restart the car. It is likely to be a failing sensor, or even the ECM itself.

You will have to get the bracket out of the way, just to get the housing off and back on in an easy manner that won't cause a leak. The hose may be the one from the valve cover area, carrying the blow by and crankcase fumes back into the intake-so part of the positive crankcase ventilation. So that hose could have a lot of carbon like deposits. See if you can twist or work it back and forth carefully. Not sure how it connects or where it comes apart, If it is plastic, sometimes they break no matter how careful- age makes them very brittle.