RTO Water Heaters - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I've run in to quite a few of those the last 2 or 3 seasons, so they sure aren't fun. The odd time I have got real lucky by putting threaded plug back in, and tightening it real tight, then taking it back out and the anode took a bite to plug again and came out. Last few I did, basically had to tap it in slightly, carefully, so as not to let is drop in tank and then not be able to retrieve it. If the wire (like coat hanger size) , is still sticking out where you can get a good grip with a small pair of vise grips, then try that, and try wiggling it slightly as you pull. Last one wouldn't come even then, so I took a small drift punch and tapped wire in center, back toward tank an inch or 2, which left me a hole approx 1/8", so I threaded in a long bigger diameter screw that took a good bite to the soft metal zinc anode, then tried pulling on that as well while wiggling. Still wouldn't come, so I tapped it inward slowly, making sure I still had good grip with vise grips on screw head. Kept going in a little, then pull out a little each time as well. This one actually had to go in until it cleared opening in tank, ( didn't want that, but that was the idea of long screw, so I still had a grip on it.) but I still had hold of screw head attached and it wiggled right back out through hole after that. Most times at worst it would only have to go in about 1/2", then a good pull and some wiggling would get it out, but last one was a close call. Hope this is of some help. If explanation not clear enough, feel free to reply and ask more questions. If /when you get it out, let me know how it goes will ya?

Your heating element was over-heating and was a fire hazard at this point. I have the same unit, same problem. If on "High" the heating element will over heat and melt the connectors. If left too long can cause a fire. There are other's with the exact same issue.This was an old post, but I replied to help any new individuals searching for similar problems. (May 2022)

Please reach out to your local plumber.

Code 541 means the 2 way valve is not turning, that could be the valve has build up calcium due to hard water and the attached motor is not able to turn it, or the motor is broke or finally the controller (Compute Board is defective).The 2 wau valve sits behind another valve when looking at the unit on the left hand corner, it must be taken out first to gain access to the 2 way valve.The 2 way valve motor can be seperated from the valve by two screws and the valve can be manually opened but turning it to the horizantal position, there is a pin on that shaft.Turn kon the heater then but leave the motor connected, if the motor turns for short time then the PCB is most likely ok. This usually indicated that there is too much of build up inside the valve. If the tankless was properly with bypass valves (outside of the unit) installed then this can be easily fixed.Turn the unit off and run with an external pump and bucket with vinegar for about 30 minutes by using the bypass valves. This will clean the 2 way valve from inside and should turn then easily and the motor will be able to control it. This is usually beyond the DIY scope, call a real pro for that.http://www.justtankless.com

checked for long time final find out the sensors socket has some water in it and I dry it out and the heater fire up right away "hope this can help other people " good luck.

You have too much pressure in your system , you have to reduce the pressure or by Valve from Home Depot it holds a lot more then original from your tankless water heater.

page 56 Call for service under warranty http://www.dutchmen.com/media/5760/2015_dutchmen_owners_manual.pdf

Hi,replacement can be found on amazon, click here and take a look Amazon com Water Heater pointer. Cheers

I suggest contacting a certified contractor to take care of this for you.

Sounds like the sensor is not working shutting down too early

Re- set code!!!!We have a Takagi TH3 DV 540 model.Air intake got blocked with snow, condensation etc.Once we cleared that then you just have to re-set it to clear the 991. On our model there are 4 tiny buttons across the bottom (Take off front cover) to find them. of the computer board assembly bottom left corner. Push the two buttons on the right simultaneously hold for 15-20 seconds or so, then turn the Takagi off then on again- should work now! If you have a different model then those buttons will be in the bottom left corner still but running vertically- try doing as above with the bottom two buttons. We had to go without heat and hot water for 2 days until we could get hold of someone to tell us this. We called Seneca Supply 716-852-4744. Good luck

How are you filling the tank, and is this in an RV or what? Open pressure relief valve when filling and when water comes out pressure relief valve, you know your close to full. If it doesn't come out there when valve is open, check for by-pass valve(s) in wrong position and not filling the tank.

If no water in it when switch left on for hydro use, you probably burned out the element. They burn out pretty quick when no water. You have to shut off breaker to it for safety, and remove back cover where you see hydro cable going in to access it.

when you run out if hot water in the shower can you still get hot water in the othert fawcetts???

http://waterheatertimer.org/Atwood-water-heater-resources.html Gene h If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Owner Manuals

Bad faucet cartridge: walk-thru on following link http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Where is it coming from? It would make sense to have a plug in the conwe of the tank. Need you to clarify what it is lthat is leajing.