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You will have to run down the wiring under the dash on the drivers side suzuki not great as they used so many different harnesses for vehicles that is why they have problems but once you find the wires for the lights it is most likely a wornout pin on a connector

2010 Suzuki... | Answered 3 days ago


Where can I locate and remove the fuel pump on a Suzuki swift 2005 car?

2006 Suzuki... | Answered 3 days ago


I think you should have the technician to change it because it has to do some cleaning and check the scv valve because there will be more problems than the pump.

Suzuki Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago


you could have a bad fuel pump.you first have to extract the codes from the on board computer.This will give you an idea where to look for the problem.You could crack your fuel line to see if you have fuel going to the fuel rail.Check for spark at all the plugs by pulling the plugs and attaching the wire and check for a spark.Make sure you air filter isn't blocked. I would change the fuel pump it sounds like its starving for fuel.

Suzuki Swift... | Answered on Nov 18, 2019


Hello
u will find a lot of wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams help books and stuff like this at reliable-store
the girl in the chat box can help u instantly... im a frequent buyer there since Im a mechanic so take help from there

Suzuki Cars &... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019


Hi, Thass64 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816746/Suzuki-Vs700-1985.html#product-Intruder%20VS
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1995 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019


Hi, Monica and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
C90 front end wobble at 40 mph
Honda warranty complaint Be sure to take tube of KY
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Suzuki Boulevard... | Answered on Nov 13, 2019


Hi, Jesse before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/227012-c50t-will-not-hold-charge.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1042330/Suzuki-Vl800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611701/Suzuki-Vl800.html

2008 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 08, 2019


the fuel line leaving tank to the box is your fuel pump,it may not be working,take the line from the tank to pump and check to see if you have fuel flow through that line,if you do reconnect it and disconnect line leaving box to carb, push start button to see if you have fuel from pump,if not,check to see if there is a vacuum line connected to pump,it may be vacuum operated,you can also just run the fuel line from tank straight to carb to see if it will start,then you will know if its your fuel pump.

Suzuki ST 250... | Answered on Nov 06, 2019


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

2006 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 05, 2019


Sounds like your timing is too far retarded. Check it out or ask your local dealer to check it for you.

2000 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Nov 04, 2019


https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2007_Suzuki_SX4_Sport_2.0L_4_Cyl./clock/set_clock

http://www.suzuguide.com/suzuki-257.html

FROM OLDE FIXYA ANSWER

Clock radio reset


Push clock button in and hold until it blinks.
button #5 is hour adjust.
button #6 is the minute adjust.
button #4 is set.
Jan 25, 2012 ' 1996 Suzuki
============================

Suzuki Cars &... | Answered on Nov 03, 2019


There is one supply hose (larger) and a bunch of vent tubes. The vent tubes really don't matter how they are connected as long as they vent. The vents that point vertical - just loop the tube up and then down towards the ground.

2004 Suzuki ST... | Answered on Nov 03, 2019


AC orifice is always located between high pressure tube coming from compressor and the evaporator, basically is bolted to evaporator piping.

Suzuki Cars &... | Answered on Nov 02, 2019


Hi, Bobby parts swapping is common with most motorcycles when it comes to interchangeable or compatible parts from one model with another "EXCEPT" for the CDI's they are year-make-model "SPECIFIC" the best thing to do is call your local Dealership Parts Department or a reputable independent shop. If your location is not near a shop then go online and find a parts catalogue or "FICHE" and match part numbers depending on your criteria.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Front+fork+swap+Suzuki+VL+1500+Intruder+LC&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjU_8jXtsblAhWjq1kKHTLODr8QsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://ariesmotorcycles.com/fork-swap-chart/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1000591/Suzuki-Vl1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

2002 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Oct 31, 2019


Hi, Raed for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Fusebox+location+2005+Suzuki+Boulevard+M95&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8kIC098TlAhXDrFkKHeGCCOQQsAR6BAgHEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5oXgpdwGkY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html#product-Boulevard%20M50 Free
https://diyrepairmanuals.com/product/service-manual-for-2005-suzuki-boulevard-m95-vz1600-motorcycle-2/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIksSWhfjE5QIVoINaBR3ZvABtEAYYAyABEgIIavD_BwE $270
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 30, 2019

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