I wanted to help you but I am not familiar with your specific model. Suzukis are sold in America but not this exact model. None of the Suzukis we are familiar with have an Inertia Switch (Fuel Shut Off Switch). Would you please contact the parts dealership and verify that this component exists first. If it is in fact applicable request the service department and ask for the location of the inertia switch. This switch has many locations depending on make and models. You could look behind the glove box liner, lower interior kick panel (driver's or passenger side), below the carpet or behind a labeled access panel in the truck or rear hatch area. I hope this helps. When you have found your solution would you please write back and tell me what you found? Thank you and good luck.
I was able to get the fingertip pad out of the liftgate by removing the two screws which hold it to the body of the liftgate. Once you detach the clip for the wiring harness, the rubber pad comes right out. Remove all 5 or 6 of the little screws to expose the inner workings. I then just used to solder to join the corroded parts which fell off long ago and it works fine. Here's a lousy picture! 2008 SUZUKI XL7 LIFTGATE
Turn the stick to the right seven times, until you reach "clock settings" and press once. Turn the analogue stick to the right again until you reach "adjust clock" and press again. Here you can turn the stick either left or right again until you select the correct time
You will have to run down the wiring under the dash on the drivers side suzuki not great as they used so many different harnesses for vehicles that is why they have problems but once you find the wires for the lights it is most likely a wornout pin on a connector
you could have a bad fuel pump.you first have to extract the codes from the on board computer.This will give you an idea where to look for the problem.You could crack your fuel line to see if you have fuel going to the fuel rail.Check for spark at all the plugs by pulling the plugs and attaching the wire and check for a spark.Make sure you air filter isn't blocked. I would change the fuel pump it sounds like its starving for fuel.
u will find a lot of wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams help books and stuff like this at reliable-store
the girl in the chat box can help u instantly... im a frequent buyer there since Im a mechanic so take help from there
Hi, Thass64 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816746/Suzuki-Vs700-1985.html#product-Intruder%20VS https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki