Tokina Cameras - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

This will depend on the lens you have now.

Some Tokina lenses have a universal fitting, with a separate adaptor mount for each camera body they fit. Its usually the last 5 - 10mm of the mount, and its identifiable by a second release button, which allows the specific fitting to be changed. If you have one of those, you just need the Nikon fitting.

If the P/K mount is an integral part of the lens, you have a couple of choices.
(1) You could get an engineering shop to alter the mount. This costs a lot and probably isn't worth the hassle. (It might be better to sell your lens and buy the nikon equivalent).
(2) You could use an adaptor. These are readily available on eBay.
For example:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pentax-PK-K-Lens-to-Nikon-AI-AF-F-camera-mount-Adapter_W0QQitemZ150400359906QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Photography_CameraLenses_Lens_caps_hoods_adaptors_ET?hash=item23048f5de2

Note that just because it has the right (i.e. Nikon) fitting, it doesn't mean that it will necessarily have full functionality on the body you intend to use with it.

Some Nikon bodies are "extremely fussy" about which lenses they can use, and it might be worth evaluating whether your proposed solution would work with the camera body you have in mind before committing to any sort of expenditure.

I have the exact same problem, it's the aperture flex cable which have a design flaw. At 12mm the flex is stretched at maximum and over the years loses its flexibility and breaks. Mine works fine from 24 to 15mm. Below 15 the camera always reports err01. All flex cables in the tokina are welded -IMHO you need to take it to a professional.

Perhaps. Tokina makes lenses with a variety of mounts. If the lens already has an m4/3 mount then you won't need an adapter at all. Some Tokina lenses take the "universal" T-mount. In this case remove the current mount and put on an m4/3 mount. If it has some other fixed mount, m4/3 adapters are available for some of them. It all goes back to the mount already on the lens.

Here is an article describing the process and giving some links to the necessary adapter.

The aperture and shutter speed setting depends on the amount of light and on the effect you want to achieve. For any given lighting situation there are many possible aperture/shutter speed settings that are all equally valid. However, the aperture also determines the depth of field, and the shutter speed can either freeze action or allow it to blur. Only you as the photographer can decide which of those valid exposure settings best conveys your vision.As to how to determine the proper exposure, there are several possibilities. One is to use a light meter. If you don't have a separate light meter, you can use another lens and meter through it. It may not give you exactly the same field of view, but it should get you into the ballpark. Then there's the "sunny-16 rule." This says that under a bright sun, the proper exposure is f/16 with a shutter speed equivalent to 1 over the ISO. Of course this is just a starting point, and you can adjust the aperture/shutter speed to achieve the desired result.I suggest you visit your local library. They should have introductory books on photography which will explain all this in depth.

You can download the manual and more from the manufacturer's web site at
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/digital_cameras/powershot_g_series/powershot_s2_is#BrochuresAndManuals


http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/
support/consumer/digital_cameras/
powershot_g_series/powershot_s2_is#BrochuresAndManuals

Hi Ernie - Your old camera has what is called a "Crop" or "APS-C" sized sensor. This is a very common sensor size used in many "Pro-sumer" grade cameras. The Tokina 16-50mm f/2.8 Pro DX for Canon is made for APS-C sensors (read the specs for it here) Your new 5D Mark II is a "Professional" grade camera and has what is called a "Full Frame" sensor. This is where the problem lies. An APS-C sensor is smaller than the Full Sensor - roughly 22.2mm x 14.8mm (depending on manufacturer); and the Full Frame sensor is the same as 35mm film: 36mm x 24mm.



A full frame sensor image - with the smaller crop sensor sizes in red, yellow and green on top. Canon has full frame, 1.3x and 1.6x, Nikon has 1.5 and Olympus has 2x.


The Tonkina lens you have (and every other lens designed for use with APS-C sensors for that matter) projects the image on the smaller APS-C sensor, and completely covers the sensor. When you put this lens on the new 5D, the image projected does not completely cover the sensor, hence the dark, rounded edges in the images. This problem will not go away. Some APS-C lenses protrude more deeply into the full frame camera body and can interfere (or even damage) the camera's mirror when it flips up during an exposure. If you have the old body, use this lens only with it. If you sold or otherwise no longer posses the body, you might think about selling the lens to help finance some new, Full Frame lenses needed for use with your 5D.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply Thank you!