Freezer achieving -5 is good airflow at the top is good. You have a return air problem something is blocking airflow back to freezer. Look for a vent in the Fresh Food side along the dividing wall could be as simple as product against the vent. Vent could also be behind crisper drawers. If all of that is clear Pull freezer cover and look for ice or frost buildup in vent.
depends on the age, you may have actually ruined it by moving it on its side which causes the refrigerant to go places internally it was never designed to.
call Whirlpool customer service line to confirm
Was it working before maybe your filter is clogged make sure the filter is going in the right direction make sure your water is turned on to the refrigerator
moved you out of computer repair, it is not.
no,
the hose is icemaker or water tap
if you use tape on the end there, bugs can't go inside.
for when later you decide to use that feature.
if no tools use gum on the port.
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.Evaporator coilsPoor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
THE COMPRESSOR:If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To FixTroubleshooting Thermistor Problems in RefrigeratorsHow to Test your Defrost Timer
replace plastic tubing and install valve. I put one under sink and one at the refrigerator. For plastic line I use push to fit connectors. They
are available at HD, Lowe's amazon plumbing supply. You should use a flexible tube cutter also available at the store. You will get a clean square cut.
I will check with some clients I work with who are former Whirlpool engineers and managers and let you know asap. Probably Monday. Thanks for your patience!
Contact Whirlpool by phone or simply ask immediately in a live chat, I'll add the information below with a link that leads to their info and chat page! My apologies for a generic answer but sometimes it's best to go straight to the source! Thanks for your your question! Best of Luck! See Below
Contact Us
check to see if your water supply is frozen by using a hair dryer and blow hot air into the line from the ice maker for about 5 min. May have to repeat this a couple of times.
I could not find your model on the Whirlpool web site but did find GI5FSAXVY02 ... the link below may help ...
https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/28985-GI5FSAXVY02-Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Control-Panel-on-door-doesn-t-work
I also found this video...
And on the Whirlpool site using the other model number I found the owners manual but that was not very helpful
https://www.whirlpoolparts.com/UserManual/5edfbda346524f8c85250e3217c85a1b/Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Repair-Manual-GI0FSAXVA01-GI0FSAXVB01-GI0FSAXVB02-GI0FSAXVQ01-GI0FSAXVY01-GI0FSAXVY02-GI5FSAXVY01-GI5FSAXVY02-GI5FVAXVB02-GI5FVAXVL01
Good luck on your troubleshooting...
It's a possibility that the regrigerator's conpressor is low on oil, this could cause the issue you're describing- being "loud" or "noisy". Being Low on Refrigerant can also cause this sometimes. To directly answer your question, sure you can do something about this yourself as long as you're familiar with refrigeration systems, and have a set of gauges to check the refrigerant level, etc. The oil and refrigerant must be installed precisely and if you add to much(or too little) that'll be a problem. Usually when a refrigerator gets noisy, especially if it's several years old, just replace it. Check your local Craigslist page as there are always deals to be found on there for nice, used appliances. You can call a local appliance shop, one that sells used ones, to see if they have a used one for you. Also, the Facebook Marketplace is a great source for stuff like this. If you have a friend or family member, who works in the hvac Trade it couldn't hurt to ask them to come check it out for free or perhaps a minimal amount, you can try it but 99/100 times you'll end up buying a new refrigerator refrigerator.That's another good thing about Craigslist & FB Marketplace- the option to barter or trade is often available. Another option if you’re not comfortable with a used one is to call the local stores that sell appliances, like Lowes, Home Depot, Best Buy, etc. and ask about a returned or blemished item, usually they include a full warranty identical to a new one at a much cheaper price! My Refrigerator got loud a while back and I had another one the sane day for $50, it was on Craigslist!
Contact Us
